Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you really want to go NA than consider getting a RB26 head so you can rev it harder plus you get ITBs from factory...If you sell all of your current head, manifold, injectors etc than you will be close to getting the GTR head.

see....that shut everyone up....

the problem is that cars without turbos are gay. see the issue?

Ha ha ha, I agree whole heartedly with you Duncan, I want nothing more then to keep the flutter BUT, is it not true, those who started small, in lower powered, worse handling cars and perservered generally learnt to go quicker then those who just throw money at a car?

I'm chasing lap times, and want to do it by clean, fast driving, NOT throwing more power in.

If you really want to go NA than consider getting a RB26 head so you can rev it harder plus you get ITBs from factory...If you sell all of your current head, manifold, injectors etc than you will be close to getting the GTR head.

If I do 100% go an NA (There's a high likely hood) then I'll be selling the mani and turbo+wastegate for sure, and I'd love a 26 head... So I might just do that...

Tempted to throw me an offer on it all?

what about going back to a standardish (hi-flow low mount turbo?)

Or ill swap you my un-used brand spankers turbo for your setup :D

What's your setup?

I'm keen on swaps for something smaller so long as it's new new... Is your setup egay style or proper?

The ole' high flow setup still runs out of puff about around 5000RPM.

What I'd be looking at is something a TOUCH larger (If not the same size as) a GT3076R. But to change that is manifold, turbo, and dump. To me ~$3000 worth of change over...

i have a hypergear ATR43 g3 with a .82ar rear housing (similar specs to a 3071 but a touch larger), new stainless bell mouth dumpipe i can also give you a std....lol.....manifold and oil/waters lines and fittings...and shtuff

i have a hypergear ATR43 g3 with a .82ar rear housing (similar specs to a 3071 but a touch larger), new stainless bell mouth dumpipe i can also give you a std....lol.....manifold and oil/waters lines and fittings...and shtuff

That's an extremely tempting swap.

You do realise how ridiculous this turbo is on the circuit and the smoke plumes it makes? (Was going to test it with a oil pressure regulator) to see if it could be avoided.

We need to talk more in detail, I pmd you MSN details earlier if you have it?

those who just throw money at a car?

Yeah, I know for a fact that doesnt make a car go quick, lol, Just get that oil issue fixed and don't rev the guts out of it and it should last.

I recon you'll like a (low - medium) boosted turbs more than a NA, unless its a V8, remember its not how many kiilerwasps you have, its set up and driver.(damn you Chubbs and your 65kw car,LOL.)

Yeah, I know for a fact that doesnt make a car go quick, lol, Just get that oil issue fixed and don't rev the guts out of it and it should last.

I recon you'll like a (low - medium) boosted turbs more than a NA, unless its a V8, remember its not how many kiilerwasps you have, its set up and driver.(damn you Chubbs and your 65kw car,LOL.)

The thoughts of NA were mainly because going to a newer, better designed more efficient (better matched) turbo, would cost alot more then N/A with some cheap new pistons added...

That and the sound of 8500RPM with the shortest induction possible was going to be beautiful... But that may change... As I said, this is the drawing board stages right now.

well....that is a different story. If you really want to learn to drive (or at least get 100% from the car's capability) sell the liner and buy an under 2l IPRA car. No better way to learn the value of accurate car placement and mid corner speed. The sort of car that when you mash the throttle nothing happens :D

seriously though....learning to use all of the car's ability is about seat time (mostly) and instruction (often). spending money on the motor or time in the garage will give you neither unfortunately...shame because that's all I ever do too.....

well....that is a different story. If you really want to learn to drive (or at least get 100% from the car's capability) sell the liner and buy an under 2l IPRA car. No better way to learn the value of accurate car placement and mid corner speed. The sort of car that when you mash the throttle nothing happens :D

seriously though....learning to use all of the car's ability is about seat time (mostly) and instruction (often). spending money on the motor or time in the garage will give you neither unfortunately...shame because that's all I ever do too.....

and me...but i dont even have a garage atm lol

you have too many car problems, obviously turbo is beyond your abilities if you are thinking of NAing it.. you need an SR20DE pulsar.

:)

The turbo at 1 Bar makes this tihng lay sideways coming on boost in 3rd... Which is around 130KM/H... That's with semis on as well! Yep... It's definitely beyond my ability! LOL

But... It does good skids! LOL

Edit: And Duncan, definitely does seat time + instruction improve driving 10 fold!

That Texi day was one of the most fun days I've had in ages, and learnt so much. I was so glad I took the liner there for it's first locked diff outing.

Edit: And I'm off to find out some info from those running E85...

id say give the 11:1 + smallish turbo a go, though you will have to run E85 or some race fuel i dont think 98 will like 11:1+ boost without water meth injection (another option if E85 is not easily available).

The issue I've been warned of is even on E85, with 11:1, the compression in the motor could quite likely bend a rod.

But then I've heard some euro cars are coming out on 98 fuel with 10.5:1 CR so... More reading needed...

That and I've been told to run alot larger injectors and up the whole fuel system... From what I've been told is to look for 1600CC injectors, and twin 044s feeding the fuel rail from a surge, and a single 044 feeding the surge tank with larger lines from surge tank to injectors.

For now it's looking like I'll be throwing another 30DE bottom end in with a turbo more suited for track work, and holding off a little on the 11:1 and E85 transformation.

But I will be playing with going unassisted brakes, and a full engine bay tidy up whilst the engine is out, along with a few other little changes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...