Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd think you'd be able to get an assessor to look at it and tell you if it will be written off or not and then you can make the decision as to whether to claim or not. Mind you then they know your car is damaged and not worth insuring for as much. Anyone know about assessors?

Yeah that's what I was thinking too

Well the fix for the bonnet is easy, just need someone to start a group buy on carbon fiber bonnets lol.

I'd be willing to pay $600 to $800 for one instead of paying $500 for a stock R34 bonnet, can someone with the contacts organise one?

  • Replies 201
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

forgot to mention its a mazda 6 mps which was a 2006 from memory yes it was ~60k on road, it was more then the mazda 3 awd etc

also they only made the mazda 6 mps for 1 or 2 years i think, not sure why there cooler then the mazda 3 :laugh:

all the mazda 3s were fwd only the 6 was 4wd

good car, shame too

$21k write off...

If there is extensive damage to a roof, lots of cars will be written off. Repairing a roof is a massive job, all window have to come out, all interior has to come out, roof has to be cut out and you loose a lot of structural rigidity and so on.

$21k is an easy write off is for hail damage.

Brand new Euro cars can be written off for less....

you dont need to get panels replaced, paintless dent removal will get them all out except for body kits, wings and other non metal parts. 21K you are not going to be written off. My wifes Mirage was only an 18 thousand dollar car (on road with a few extras) and it was 2 months old and it never got written off, they repaired it with paintless dent removal and it looked like new again, you would never have known it was hail damaged. Get an assessor to look at it and ask them if the option of pantless dent removal is there, I would be surprised if it wasn't what they were going to do as my wifes car was insured with AAMI too.

panel beater said on quote it wouldnt be worth repairing due the repair value being so close to market value, they have to remove all interior, roof lining, door trims. My whole car is pretty much covered in dents. Think they even said something about removing roof? cant remember . But yeah.

it they are removing the roof then it's not paintless dent removal. If it's not over market value then you should have the option to get it repaired i'm not sure how AAMI work on that sort of thing. How the hell does the panel beater know if it's close to market value or not? Unless he is using Glass guide liek the insurance companies do to get it but even then it's an estimate as you may have agreed value on your car insurance, I know I do.

Hey guys, I'm confused as to whether I should claim or not because my excess is so high. Can anyone help me out? I have dints on nearly every panel, my rear and front screens got cracked as did my sun roof :nyaanyaa: would they write my R34 off? It's insured for $21K

How much is your excess?

$21k write off...

If there is extensive damage to a roof, lots of cars will be written off. Repairing a roof is a massive job, all window have to come out, all interior has to come out, roof has to be cut out and you loose a lot of structural rigidity and so on.

$21k is an easy write off is for hail damage.

Brand new Euro cars can be written off for less....

Errr... can't u just use the suction pads/paintless dent removal to get the roof dents out?

my roof looks like been hit with marbles, entire thing is gone.

The panel beater place i went to is a recomended workshop from just car who are tied with AAMI. So once i gave my claim # i guess they could have looked up info? yeah i have agreed value on mine, i think its at 13'500...1500 excess so if i walk away with 12k should they decide to pay me out ill be happy.

Hey all,

Thought I might update you on my progress, going to see the first of a few PDR guys this arvo to assess the "fixable" dents on the car, as a rough guess I think it's going to be around 1k but I'll let you know (I've got 5 large dents, two bonnet, two front driver fender and one on the boot, all about 50c piece size)

FYI: the guy is doing a "group assessment" of about 20 + cars as he's just been inundated with calls for help, the assessment will be @ 6B Westbury Grove St.Kilda East Victoria today only (Sunday 14th), from noon till around 4 PM. I'll probably get there around 12:30 - 1PM, if you see a white GTR give me a yell :nyaanyaa:.

Here are the PDR guy's contact details --> http://dentsmart.com.au/id1.html

Cheers,

Sean

all the mazda 3s were fwd only the 6 was 4wd

good car, shame too

yeh thats what i meant :nyaanyaa:

not sure why they did it this way they should of kept the 6 AWD, turbo 2.3 nice quick car with very nice interior quite zippy 6 speed manual and nice to drive steering feels direct like a skyline :nyaanyaa:

Hey,

Like a lot of people, my r33 got badly damaged in the hailstorm. Roof, bonnet, front left panel - all dotted everywhere with dents. I would estimate total 250 - 400 dents at least, ranging in size from almost unnoticeable to evident.

Can anyone recommend a top 3 of dent repairers in Melbourne who will do a Skyline perfectly? I'm prepared to wait, and hopefully insurance will cover it (JustCar). It's a '96 model, so I don't know if it'll be written off.

I was pretty impressed with how quickly JustCar responded after the storm.

I've heard some repairers have "light tunnels" which helps them see all the dents. Is this necessary? They don't all have this.

Seeing an insurance assessor tomorrow...

vekra

Hey all,

Thought I might update you on my progress, going to see the first of a few PDR guys this arvo to assess the "fixable" dents on the car, as a rough guess I think it's going to be around 1k but I'll let you know (I've got 5 large dents, two bonnet, two front driver fender and one on the boot, all about 50c piece size)

FYI: the guy is doing a "group assessment" of about 20 + cars as he's just been inundated with calls for help, the assessment will be @ 6B Westbury Grove St.Kilda East Victoria today only (Sunday 14th), from noon till around 4 PM. I'll probably get there around 12:30 - 1PM, if you see a white GTR give me a yell :thumbsup:.

Here are the PDR guy's contact details --> http://dentsmart.com.au/id1.html

Cheers,

Sean

I was of the understanding that aluminium is not really 'workable' metal and cannot really be repaired. Therefore the bonnet and front side gaurds (of an R32 GTR) if dented would be a throw away job?

I was of the understanding that aluminium is not really 'workable' metal and cannot really be repaired. Therefore the bonnet and front side gaurds (of an R32 GTR) if dented would be a throw away job?

Hey mate,

Yeah he did mention that the bonnet may be a bit difficult to repair without stretching/ cracking the paint as the aluminium stretches more. He recommended when I get the roof assessed (cracked the paint so not suitable for PDR) to see how much the bonnet would cost to be fixed as they may be able to get the whole thing done cheaper if they do the repair and spray (at least he was honest eh :thumbsup:), the rest of the dents he was pretty confident about (including the front fender and boot). He hasn't sent me the total figure yet (going to be sent via email) but I'll let ya know how it goes...

If the bonnet turns out to be a throw away job I might hit up Import monster and wait for the right one to pop up, or maybe one of those ADR approved fiberglass ones :D

just got my car back from jason from dent vanish

he quoted me from a video the night of the storm and took the weekend to fix it.

Paid 1050 cash took the roof lining off to save money.

He is very nice and got all 60 dints out. Only a few minor blemishes remain.

Big thumbs up, he comes highly reccomended.

Hes doing barloworld atm, im lucky i got in quick.

http://www.dentvanish.com.au/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...