Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mohsen bet you copped a good lecture from your old man ey? lol

if you're not bothered with more studying (not that you studied anyway with an ENTER like that) and are thinking of getting into a trade then do so asap. dont waste time, the earlier you start the better for you. i wasted 3.5 years at uni for nothing but meh live and learn

for 70K you can get a a mint condition e46 m3 with very low Ks and have enough change to supercharge it. non M bimmers are too grnadpa spec but thats just my opinion.

show me, and when you say low kms better be under 35000 or else its high kms for a car like that, plus the advances since old m3 to new justifty waiting and gettin one for 120k imo. i also dont like driving old model cars haha skyline excluded cos its a thrasher but my daily has to be current.

Enter score means sweet f**k all anyway. I got the highest in my school and I now paint houses for a living lol. So much emphasis placed on a score which is hardly the truest indicator of future success.

True that. I did well (89 without studying for a single exam I thought was pretty good), went to uni, decided it wasn't for me. My partner got a mid-range enter, did a year of a diploma, did the same uni course, finised and now earns double what I do and soon a lot more.

I didn't try at all, got a mid-range enter then worked a crappy entry level IT job for 3 years (and still am). Have been wanting to start my own business all that time and now I finally am :)

Soon I start getting trained to do car detailing. Something I've always wanted to learn. Then I'm going to start a mobile car wash/detailing business. Already got a name, website designed, employees etc. Everything is ready to go. Just need to learn the skills!

Good indicator of how motivated and hardworking one is i think. The fact you did well and now paint houses for a living isn't an indictment on the system, more a reflection on you :P

99.55 over hurr :devil:

99.85 :D Got into med. Did it for a year, got bored of memorising shit and really didn't wanna be a doc, so I did software engineering for like 3 years (1 of which was repeating all my subjects that I failed cos I just lost interest in studying). Got to the 3rd year and got offered a job working fulltime for Canon, so I dropped out of uni. ended up finishing the course via correspondence while working over the next 3 years.

Just cos you get a high mark doesn't mean the right course for you is also one with a high mark, also in some instances, experience > university.

Mohsen, the covers on do-luck wheels are for brake cooling if I recall reading from the website.

I want them, pity they are impossible to come by.

I know a dude who claim his dads Toyota lexcen that can be convert from v6 to v8 by pushing the exhaust manifold.

But he is well known for his shit talker and that was without drugs...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...