Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And it's on low boost

I'm sure it would crack 300 if the guys at JEM felt okay pushing more boost into it. But again they have their reasons for not doing that.

Waiting on a payment for a set of rims I sold then I should be able to show some water meth results to people interested in what it can do with ping resistance.

  • Like 1

Well the ching ching cooler is doin a good job because the outlet pipe up till a bit past the battery tray is nice n cool, BUT once you reach the rad/fan area it heats up pretty quick all the way to intake mani. So I know its not the cooler thats why I wanted to re-route and heat wrap that bit of top pipe away from rad/fan and cam covers

Mines the same on stagea, hot as f**k on that corner and side piece, then water is injected near the BOV , after that its cooler..

i was making 641nm, so looks like the two turbo's are similar on that boost, not sure about the housing differences though..

its a good result though, looks like 16psi, probably needs atleast 20psi to really unleash

Thats a pretty good point, I realise that I'm making 286rwkw on 16psi not 18psi, as it drops down to 16 up the rev range where the power peak is, so its a good figure, what will happen at 20-22psi I cannot wait, or 26psi if I add water injection.. :) 2nd gear can be pretty scary, even with a moderate stab at 4000rpms it gives a nasty lurch forward and skates sideways / wheelspins about a bit, 3rd gear same story but to a lesser extent, am running good compound tyres 18" Potenzas at the rears.. lurving it man... My dynocurve shows that it shoots up 100rwkw in about 400-500 rpms (from 100 to 200rwkw), this the bit thats fun... :yes:

Thats a pretty good point, I realise that I'm making 286rwkw on 16psi not 18psi, as it drops down to 16 up the rev range where the power peak is, so its a good figure, what will happen at 20-22psi I cannot wait, or 26psi if I add water injection.. :) 2nd gear can be pretty scary, even with a moderate stab at 4000rpms it gives a nasty lurch forward and skates sideways / wheelspins about a bit, 3rd gear same story but to a lesser extent, am running good compound tyres 18" Potenzas at the rears.. lurving it man... My dynocurve shows that it shoots up 100rwkw in about 400-500 rpms (from 100 to 200rwkw), this the bit thats fun... :yes:

try this, find a nice smooth piece of tarmac, let second gear come up to 4000rpm without boost, then drop the hammer and fry them for 60meters ,

awesome feeling, lol oh and PRIVATE ROAD obviously :)

Edited by AngryRBGTX

try this, find a nice smooth piece of tarmac, let second gear come up to 4000rpm without boost, then drop the hammer and fry them for 60meters ,

awesome feeling, lol oh and PRIVATE ROAD obviously :)

hahahah..now that you told me, I will definitely try that out. Why are you only running 16psi on E85 (your signature), go 26psi.. Hey you the same guy as sliver33 something right?

hahahah..now that you told me, I will definitely try that out. Why are you only running 16psi on E85 (your signature), go 26psi.. Hey you the same guy as sliver33 something right?

yeah i changed my name, well the usual advice is 300kw is the limit for stock bottem end so with that in mind 320kw is a good number and looking very safe on E85, i like to stay cautious rather than see how long the piece of string is... lol.

You should go E85 next, cost me around a grand extra.

yeah i changed my name, well the usual advice is 300kw is the limit for stock bottem end so with that in mind 320kw is a good number and looking very safe on E85, i like to stay cautious rather than see how long the piece of string is... lol. Plus im working on a new project, got a cheap XR6 ute which im thinking bout turbo conversion :)

You should go E85 next, cost me around a grand extra.

i have never read my name so much on a forum before.

update jez has already told most of it but i will do it again anyway.

setup so far has put up with a drag session, private track day , 2 SAU cruises ,my wedding and a bunch of other driving.

i have been watching temps and oil use like a hawk, engine still seems very very healthy, min amount of breathing and so on.

and yes my old BOV which we installed before wakie was a massive leak no wonder it felt not as fast.

all leaks are now fixed and skybitch is better then ever thanks to jez.

below is the print out

post-57423-0-91542900-1357804481_thumb.jpg

Its very interesting to see the numbers being made with a 0.63 rear housing on the 5558, ill have to look into this more before ordering one, but is there anyone running a 0.82 rear?

I'm over the moon with how much power the baby turbo put out the best part is it made the exact power I wanted

Going off of the road speed between kurtis and jez's graphs there doesnt seem to be that much difference between when they are on full boost.

I remeber reading somewhere that Kurtis' setuo was all in by like 3750rpm but cant recall what rpm jez was hitting full boost.

If the difference is negligible, youd almost go the ts .84 6262 just for the extra power it gives

I'm over the moon with how much power the baby turbo put out the best part is it made the exact power I wanted

Hey Kurtis, with that much power you could put down a high 10s quarter mile? Not sure why you got a 13.098, guess tyres/suspension/launch was the problem. I have yet to learn how to launch..

Anyone done any back to back (or similar) on the 6262 and 6266? Will be deciding between these in 0.84 TS for a 2.2 VE SR. Leaning towards the 6262 atm.

i have seen dyno sheets floating around which are probably in this post somewhere anyway - which show the difference in the response between, 6266, 6466,6766 being about 500rpm on a 3.4L ...

I have even emailed precision directly who have confirmed that it would be about 300-500rpm on a 3L

i have seen dyno sheets floating around which are probably in this post somewhere anyway - which show the difference in the response between, 6266, 6466,6766 being about 500rpm on a 3.4L ...

I have even emailed precision directly who have confirmed that it would be about 300-500rpm on a 3L

If you looking for a 3076R equivalent then go the 0.63/ 5558 which is what I did from research and Unigroup's advice, if you looking for bigger, then consider the 6XXX series...

Hey Kurtis, with that much power you could put down a high 10s quarter mile? Not sure why you got a 13.098, guess tyres/suspension/launch was the problem. I have yet to learn how to launch..

I can explain my time , first time drag racing ever.

Still had suspension setup for corners .

So basically driver error but hopefully with practice I will put a time to match speed but aiming for higher speed as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...