Jump to content
SAU Community

R30 Stolen Today

blind_elk

By blind_elk,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Appreciate the offer John, but I have something else on.

The problem is where the PoS(s) might have taken it. If they are only after a cheap ride home, then the car isn't going to be out in the boondocks, but is somewhere in front of someone's house. And there are A LOT of homes in the Werribee area.

So I think I'll just leave it to chance for the moment.

Fortunately, I'm less likely to have to park at the station after the new bus timetable starts on Monday. Now buses pick up / set down just around the corner from home, albeit at 40 minute intervals.

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted (edited)

When my brother's car was stolen from Holmesglen station a few years ago, it was found five weeks later in Southland car park. It had been parked there for many weeks. It might be worth an early morning drive through the local shopping centres. It's easy to leave a car there without being noticed.

Now... about that steering wheel lock (Club Lock type). Did you have one fitted? Asking because I often park at railway stations. Hope you have better experiences with busses than I did.

Here's hoping the car turns up soon.

JH

(Oh, they found an envelope in my brother's car, got his address, figured no one was home and robbed his house!)

Edited by jrh001
Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted
When my brother's car was stolen from Holmesglen station a few years ago, it was found five weeks later in Southland car park. It had been parked there for many weeks. It might be worth an early morning drive through the local shopping centres. It's easy to leave a car there without being noticed.

Now... about that steering wheel lock (Club Lock type). Did you have one fitted? Asking because I often park at railway stations. Hope you have better experiences with busses than I did.

Here's hoping the car turns up soon.

JH

(Oh, they found an envelope in my brother's car, got his address, figured no one was home and robbed his house!)

this is a fair point, my sisters old corolla was found at chadstone shopping centre, apprently was there for 2 weeks.... couldn't think of a less sus place to drive a car too, get out and leave

would be a very worthwhile adventure either late at night or early in the morning visiting all the multilevel / large carparks within a 10km radius too see if its there..., the thief wont still be driving the car around... too risky now its surely been reported stolen... so it will be dumped somewhere!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Now... about that steering wheel lock (Club Lock type). Did you have one fitted?
No. But I do have a Jaycar screecher alarm, but never got it to work. It will after I get the car back!
(Oh, they found an envelope in my brother's car, got his address, figured no one was home and robbed his house!)
That's my worry - there might be rego papers in the car giving my address. I was concerned that the 32 might not have been there when I got home, although it has a proper alarm w/immobiliser.
xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
Posted (edited)

thats f**ked up what people will do..

what happened to working?

That said, how far are you able to go, when it comes to messing up the culprit before you're liable in the eyes of the law?

Edited by xALmoN
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No news so far (not that I'm expecting any soon).

I've emailed a couple of other groups I'm in. I was on the bus yesterday, so kept an eye out up sidestreets, but didn't spot it.

I'm not holding my breath in the hope of seeing it soon, or even again.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

We see two or three dumped around Leakes and Derrimut road every week.

I think someone just nicks a car from either Hoppers or Werribee station on an almost daily basis to get them out to their estate. I would never park anything near those stations from what I have seen!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Any updates on this?

JH

Nothing new. Cancelled the e-Tag, just in case the car was heading east (it hasn't so far).

Don't expect police to be breaking a sweat over it either. After all, there are "hoons" out there to be harrassed.

  • 2 weeks later...
zero-R33- Collaborator

zero-R33-

Posted
Posted

Damn man, sorry to hear it..

I know your pain, my last car was stolen from the front of my house. Best of luck finding it, although my one was found 2 weeks later crashed into a tree with all my stereo stripped...luckily insurance had already paid me out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...