Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car is not running properly i think.. i only have minimal mods but it does not have much more than stock power wat could be wrong. it has a front mount, boost t 11pound , cat back 3inch zorst, heavy duty clutch. its only got 140atw.. could it be because of stock dump pipe???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322133-car-not-performing/
Share on other sites

do you have any type of piggy back computer or aftermarket computer. if not then you cant expect much. your afr's will be all over the place and (most probably rich) . once you get something like a SAFC2 (fuel only) or power fc (ignition and fuel)your power will go up to realistic levels.

Blaming the ecu is an easy thing to do. Could also be the dyno reading low. Post up a dyno sheet.

I wouldnt say anything is wrong.

Do the basics first, ie servicing(plugs/oil/timing/ecu reset, etc).

Mine pulled 175rwkw with only a catback and a pod and 12.5degrees and was only running 9psi.

thanks guys i changed the dump pipe and im installing an eboost with a fcd within the next 3 weeks just need money for the tune.

even with the dump pipe changed i have noticed a big increase in spool and top end pull, so looking forward to the e boost :kiss:

the cat is a xforce one so i think its decent

Edited by havoc_r33gtst
Please please do not install the FCD. Do your car a favour and at least try and get a Apexi SAFC II

I've got an SAFC II if you want one - sitting on bedroom shelf. I used it when I had similar mods to you - works well and gives other info like voltage levels, knock, etc.

Id be going a compression and leakdown test before anything else.

180rwkw is a base figure for thos mods.

Personally for mild mods like that i wouldnt bother with an aftermarket ecu. Your not really going to get much top end power. Fuel economy would be better though.

Edited by Pattygtst

ive got 3inch turboback, profecb @ 11.5psi, fuelpump, fmic, pod, hiflowed injectors(unnecessary @ this stage), afc neo, made 197rwkw @ chasers then detuned to 193rwkw

tho it was just an afc it felt tad better to drive after tune

140 looks low friends auto made 150's with only pod and turboback @ stockboost

ive got 3inch turboback, profecb @ 11.5psi, fuelpump, fmic, pod, hiflowed injectors(unnecessary @ this stage), afc neo, made 197rwkw @ chasers then detuned to 193rwkw

tho it was just an afc it felt tad better to drive after tune

140 looks low friends auto made 150's with only pod and turboback @ stockboost

140 is way low..

mine made 186kw with dirty old apexi pod turboback and 11psi coutesy of a tap from bunnings...think it has a better fuel pump too..

Edited by Arthur T3
whats your compression like....

you need to find the problem not buy more shit...you should be getting around 180kw...something is wrong..fix it then buy more shit...

+1

you have a problem some where and an Eboost will not fix the problem.

  • 2 weeks later...

is there a way to raise compression if its down or is the car f***ed . could this be fixed if the mechanic i am going to checks it out ???? i bought it stock and then i got a boost tee installed the mech installed it and dynoed it he charged me 550 and it didnt seem to go much better even though boost was increased by 4 pound . since then i have changed mechanics but havent dyno tuned it ... should i ???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...