Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My favourite tool for a couple of years even if I don't use it that often. I feel so powerful holding it:

Sidchrome 1/2" 750mm long Breaker Bar

14948%20product.jpg

Think I got it for $80-90 including delivery. Probably got a receipt somewhere. My new favourites are gonna be ratchet spanners/wrenches when I get my own set. Been using a mate's and it is fantastic. Now I can't live without em.

attachicon.gifSump plug kit pic inside.jpg

For $30 at Supercheap can't go wrong. PS: the Teng one is on backorder, they have run out of stock. So sick of ruining 1/2 ratchet ends :)

What are Teng tools like? Always see them here and there for sale but never played with one. Are they decent? Somewhere in the vicinity of Kinchrome/Sidchrome quality?

Saw some crow foot spanners with their name on it a while back and thought I might ask here.

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

post-78856-0-75865500-1389484221_thumb.jpg

fits in here.

post-78856-0-49135600-1389484219_thumb.jpg

Works a Treat. :D

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

attachicon.gifDIY R31 Rear Brake Tool.JPG

fits in here.

attachicon.gifR31 S3 Rear Brakes.JPG

Works a Treat. :D

Love it, but what's the chances you'll loose it before having to change rear pads again! ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

This one looks like a damn good set; and it has both alloy & steel nutserts. I use these inserts on everything now I have them.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/214-PC-BLIND-RIVET-NUT-RIVNUT-NUTSERT-TOOL-KIT-M3-TO-M8-/120760789836?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1de76b4c&_uhb=1

!C!O7TBwEWk~$(KGrHqQOKiwEzTEGN,lvBNCJr9L

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

  • Like 1

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

That Wurth kit looks good -their tools are generally quality too

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

I have one of these ones Duncan; as long as you lube the screw and ramps it works great, & will last fine for home use.

You can use it in very tight spots, which is why I ended up with it. :yes:

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

Like when you want to dodgy up a not so closed off 'cold air' box with aluminium? Or maybe I should stop being lazy and do some welding.

But on a serious note, this looks very interesting! Like maybe fitting undertrays and the works on your track cars?

Nutserts are awesome.

I use them on fibreglass shelled Lotus' and Radicals often, but use the deeper inserts with a washer on the back face (before being pulled), this stops the nut pulling through the fibreglass with time.

The Wurth stuff is expensive, but they do work well and are reliable.

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

  • Like 2

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Heya NK7,

They won't wiggle loose if done correctly, but they're not designed to take big loads. I guess the specs would tell you different, but when you've got 100kg+ trying to rip the splitter off at speed and ripple strips slamming into the front corners under cornering, I'd prefer to use something a little more substantial (nut/bolt to chassis rails).

They're a great tool to have around and your mechanical will love working on the car with less ninja self tappers through firewalls and floorpans! Those farkers will tear you open at every chance they get...

Mark :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...