Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bugger i got a few R32 gtr looms laying about i would have swapped for the 33 one to make it plug in for you.

Damn mate I didn't even think of if you had one just gave the 33 loom to the client and got him to swap it for a 32 one plus had to get a few little things resistor gtr power steering res etc. You wouldn't think Nissan would change so much in just an engine and 4wd setup. Even the power steering pumps are differnt just little shit like that slows it up

If you boys need any pointers with your build up feel free to hit me a pm or can talk in person im in melb. as well, got this car: http://autospeed.co.nz/cms/title_Grown-Up-...03/article.html

nar mate won't need any pointers it's at my workshop so it will be a ok. Looking to hit the dyno on sunday I just need to pull the 31 off it. Lol

Damn mate I didn't even think of if you had one just gave the 33 loom to the client and got him to swap it for a 32 one plus had to get a few little things resistor gtr power steering res etc. You wouldn't think Nissan would change so much in just an engine and 4wd setup. Even the power steering pumps are differnt just little shit like that slows it up

I just changed the ps pump bracket? I must have run the rb20 bracket and pump as I never bought anything and it fitted. I might have modded it though. Can't rememeber but it would have only been filing. I thought the only difference between a r33gtr loom and r32 in relation to the ecu plug was you had to de-pin 2 wires and swap them around or is it where it plugs into the relays etc that you were having probs with. For resitors you can go to jaycar and make your own resitor pack for less than $5 using 7ohm? ceramic resistors and spend half an hour soldering it up. Worked for years.

The thing that gave me grief was I modded the rb20 knock sensor loom and wired the knock sensors backwards so wasted a couple hours there where I kept getting fault codes.

There isn't really to much that they changed. Only prob 2 things and they are simple fixes.

Hey mate I see I only had a quick look on my phone at the link.

Yeah mate they are a litte different not much but just enough to be a pain. All the plugs on the knock sensor side are all different and a few plugs in the kick panel are different so to save some pain just used a 32 one.

Yeah I have used ceramic resistors before but the client wanted the bay to look like a stock gtr.

I could of used the stock gtst outlet with the gtst power steering res but changed it to a gtr one to run a gtr air box so the gtst line is too short and the gtr line is a differnt angle so found a gtr pump inlet pipe and modded it to fit the gtst pump.

Got it all together and started but need to sort the fuel pump out j forgot about the two stage on the gtst and it's not kicking to 12v so sort that out and onto the dyno didn't spend a lot of time on it had a lot of service work to do

^^ I thought you would have known that by now that ebay is not the number 1 place to get parts :P

You could have got an AFM locally, like Aaron from Import Monster would have had one... Stock R32 GTR one, that is.

Yeah I didn't supply them so hit and miss with used afm's. Might try some afm cleaner on it to see if is just dirty as I am still getting a small voltage out of it but not likely going to fix it.

To be honest I don't get stuff off Aaron I find his prices over the top compared to my guy in Japan and the wrecker I deal with is closer and does better prices than Aaron does

Yeah I didn't supply them so hit and miss with used afm's. Might try some afm cleaner on it to see if is just dirty as I am still getting a small voltage out of it but not likely going to fix it.

To be honest I don't get stuff off Aaron I find his prices over the top compared to my guy in Japan and the wrecker I deal with is closer and does better prices than Aaron does

Yeah true, if you can get it at a lower cost, that would be sweet!

All the better for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...