Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, having been scared away by prices of local semis....what is a decent track tire out of the US?

If you had to chose between

Kuhmo Ecsta V700

Kuhmo Victo Racer V700

Kuhmo Ecsta V710 (not sure i can drive on the streets with these bad boys?)

Hankook Ventus Z214

Hankook Ventus TD Z221 (they are not listed on their website but askign about availability along with A050)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330062-track-tires-from-tyre-rack/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I havent used any of the other listed rubbers, but this is what I can say about the Ecsta's.

Have been involved with production car series for a bit now and never had any problems with them.

We ran a commo R8 on 2 sets for the recent 6hour at Sydney and they held up well. The drivers did bitch a little about them going off, but when your hauling a fat pig like an R8 on rubber that you qualified with, you expect a little fading after a couple of hours of racing.

They are a little suceptible to punctures on the saw toothed ripple strips on the inside of the tyre from what I have noticed.

Be warey of of pressures too. They blister quite easily too.

This is from what i have found through my experinces on a different car and set up to yours.

the kumho stuff is good, only about 1sec slower than dz03g/re55s. V70A is the current model but they still sell v700 in some sizes.

one big "thumbs up" for the kumho, they work well (best even) after the tread is gone (ie at and past the wear limiters). the serious guys buff them down to the wear limiters straight away, but I don't think it's worth the trouble on my budget.

the kumhos also want unusually high pressure. I run 42-44psi, the commodores run right up to 50psi for best performance. Yes that is crazy, and they got blow outs on the low profile type (35 and lower) at that pressure. but man they worked well.

haven't tried the hankook although they got good results at B24 and EC12 hours.

Kumho are a good price/performance mix, as are the toyos. If you need the fastest tyres you need to pay up for dunlops.

So Dunlops are quicker then AO50? It was hard to tell as i was not at Superlap, but surely if there was a time advantage to be running the Dunlops then people not tied up/associated with Advan would have run them.

The impression i got was the Sierra Sierra Evo were the odd ones out running Hankook whilst every other person ran the AO50s?

If i can confirm what the fastest tyre is i will grab a set as i wont be getting another chance to punch out a time for suite some time...so want to arm myself with the best tyres possible.

If i cant establish that then i think the Kuhmos for $1k sound like the best option. Who in NSW sells them? May not have to get them from the US!??!

re the yoko a050 being faster....I should have said I was talking about race use.

A050 only come in a medium compound (or super soft as used at superlap), not a hard, so they are not an option unless you can afford a set every track day.

full on super sprinting/superlap/whatever is a different story. soft tyres of any brand will outperform sensible/hard tyres from any other brand. eg I ran kumho wets once years ago and took the old blue gtst into the 1.10s at wakie. but who can afford new tyres every session?

re the yoko a050 being faster....I should have said I was talking about race use.

A050 only come in a medium compound (or super soft as used at superlap), not a hard, so they are not an option unless you can afford a set every track day.

full on super sprinting/superlap/whatever is a different story. soft tyres of any brand will outperform sensible/hard tyres from any other brand. eg I ran kumho wets once years ago and took the old blue gtst into the 1.10s at wakie. but who can afford new tyres every session?

What are you talking about?

  • 6 months later...

I don't know anyone that's used them. I think johnny at unique used either these or the similar looking hoosiers that are basically a slick with the minimum number of grooves required to meet DOT approval for road use. however I wouldn't try driving on the road with them, any state in aus and the police would be all over you apart from the fact that any wet weather driving and you'd find yourself in trouble.

on the track though they should be quite good but if you are driving in a class that requires road legal tyres check with the organisers first if they allow these tyres as some road legal classes exclude slicks like this that just have 2 grooves in them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...