Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, having been scared away by prices of local semis....what is a decent track tire out of the US?

If you had to chose between

Kuhmo Ecsta V700

Kuhmo Victo Racer V700

Kuhmo Ecsta V710 (not sure i can drive on the streets with these bad boys?)

Hankook Ventus Z214

Hankook Ventus TD Z221 (they are not listed on their website but askign about availability along with A050)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330062-track-tires-from-tyre-rack/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I havent used any of the other listed rubbers, but this is what I can say about the Ecsta's.

Have been involved with production car series for a bit now and never had any problems with them.

We ran a commo R8 on 2 sets for the recent 6hour at Sydney and they held up well. The drivers did bitch a little about them going off, but when your hauling a fat pig like an R8 on rubber that you qualified with, you expect a little fading after a couple of hours of racing.

They are a little suceptible to punctures on the saw toothed ripple strips on the inside of the tyre from what I have noticed.

Be warey of of pressures too. They blister quite easily too.

This is from what i have found through my experinces on a different car and set up to yours.

the kumho stuff is good, only about 1sec slower than dz03g/re55s. V70A is the current model but they still sell v700 in some sizes.

one big "thumbs up" for the kumho, they work well (best even) after the tread is gone (ie at and past the wear limiters). the serious guys buff them down to the wear limiters straight away, but I don't think it's worth the trouble on my budget.

the kumhos also want unusually high pressure. I run 42-44psi, the commodores run right up to 50psi for best performance. Yes that is crazy, and they got blow outs on the low profile type (35 and lower) at that pressure. but man they worked well.

haven't tried the hankook although they got good results at B24 and EC12 hours.

Kumho are a good price/performance mix, as are the toyos. If you need the fastest tyres you need to pay up for dunlops.

So Dunlops are quicker then AO50? It was hard to tell as i was not at Superlap, but surely if there was a time advantage to be running the Dunlops then people not tied up/associated with Advan would have run them.

The impression i got was the Sierra Sierra Evo were the odd ones out running Hankook whilst every other person ran the AO50s?

If i can confirm what the fastest tyre is i will grab a set as i wont be getting another chance to punch out a time for suite some time...so want to arm myself with the best tyres possible.

If i cant establish that then i think the Kuhmos for $1k sound like the best option. Who in NSW sells them? May not have to get them from the US!??!

re the yoko a050 being faster....I should have said I was talking about race use.

A050 only come in a medium compound (or super soft as used at superlap), not a hard, so they are not an option unless you can afford a set every track day.

full on super sprinting/superlap/whatever is a different story. soft tyres of any brand will outperform sensible/hard tyres from any other brand. eg I ran kumho wets once years ago and took the old blue gtst into the 1.10s at wakie. but who can afford new tyres every session?

re the yoko a050 being faster....I should have said I was talking about race use.

A050 only come in a medium compound (or super soft as used at superlap), not a hard, so they are not an option unless you can afford a set every track day.

full on super sprinting/superlap/whatever is a different story. soft tyres of any brand will outperform sensible/hard tyres from any other brand. eg I ran kumho wets once years ago and took the old blue gtst into the 1.10s at wakie. but who can afford new tyres every session?

What are you talking about?

  • 6 months later...

I don't know anyone that's used them. I think johnny at unique used either these or the similar looking hoosiers that are basically a slick with the minimum number of grooves required to meet DOT approval for road use. however I wouldn't try driving on the road with them, any state in aus and the police would be all over you apart from the fact that any wet weather driving and you'd find yourself in trouble.

on the track though they should be quite good but if you are driving in a class that requires road legal tyres check with the organisers first if they allow these tyres as some road legal classes exclude slicks like this that just have 2 grooves in them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...