Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tomei cam shafts are designed to be used with stock cam gears (lobe centers so you dont really need to be dialed in, unlike HKS cams for example), so should guarantee any cam gear will work (even a intake one on the exhaust side). I would be checking if you actually have a RB exhaust cam wheel, it's possible you've been sent one to suit a 2JZ, or 4G63 or something like that. Take a pic if possible.

Silly question but you aren't trying to put an aftermarket cam gear onto an inlet Poncam are you? Because you can't since it is made for VCT. I know you said exhaust cam gear but I thought I would double check.

Edited by PM-R33

i ended up using poncams from a late rb25 (black cas) and my old stock 25 cams had a hks exh cam gear (old style)

i thought i may use the vct down the track with a switch so decided to keep it..

so went to fit it to find the bolts dont line up, hence y u need to use a tomei cam gear!

mercury, can u fit the stock cam gear to the tomei cam? exh side?

cheers

strange. i am running tomei cam gears on standard cams without any issues

not very strange, just not easy to pickup unless really looking at whats going on. I had this shown to me yesterday with 4 brands of camgears and 4 different brands of camshaft. With the verniers locked after measuring the Tomei cam gear locating hole its very clear that both GReddy, HKS and Nissan gears hole is smaller. When placing the Tomei camgear on the Apexi, HKS and stock camshafts used as examples there is some quite noticable slop of a few degrees until the bolts lock the camgear onto the camshaft face. Put that gear on the Tomei camshaft that was also there and it didn't move at all with no bolts as the locating pin and recess in the rear of the camgear were a perfect fit. The HKS, GReddy and Nissan camgears would not fit this camshaft unless force was used to disform the locating hole allowing the gear to be pulled up square with the face. All the items were new or near new and both the HKS duralumin and HKS early style were the same. Paul pointed out that when running poncams a few years ago he had the same issue with OS Giken camgears. He also showed me with verniers how much larger the Tomei locating pin is. The GReddy, Nissan and HKS gears were a perfect fit on all the cams except the Tomei. He pointed out that the Tomei gear will work ok but depending on where it is positioned when tightening the bolts will affect the camshaft timing by a few degrees and if the gear is pivioting during the rising and falling of rpm will affect performance.

Im sure this is something the untrained eye would not pickup but when guys who are playing with this stuff on a daily basis using quite a range of brands these little things are easily picked up. Either that or Paul is looking harder than most.

Edited by blitzxtr

How much bigger is the pin? Not doubting, but i cant see how people are fitting stock gears if the pin is bigger, any more than a 2 thou inteferance fit, and you will be smashing the gears on with a hammer, which i cant see people doing. Maybe the design of the cams has changed?

Edited by Adriano
How much bigger is the pin? Not doubting, but i cant see how people are fitting stock gears if the pin is bigger, any more than a 2 thou inteferance fit, and you will be smashing the gears on with a hammer, which i cant see people doing. Maybe the design of the cams has changed?

Tomei pin is 6thou or 0.15mm larger, same as the locating hole in the Tomei cam gear. Standard pin is 6mm and Tomei is 6.15mm. Three sets of Tomei camshafts were measured to check this ranging from brand new ones out of the box, a pair 2 years old and a pair 6 years old, all the same. HKS pin is 6mm as well as Apexi. This was measured by a very experienced engine builder and double checked by a mechanical engineer with 40 years experience using Mitutoyo equipment.

Ive got tomei poncams installed to RB25 with stock inlet camgear to retain VVT and aerospeed exhaust cam gear, adjustable

aerospeed cam gear was from a group buy a few years ago

installed and setup without any issues

I'll be using a pair of aerospeed adjustable cam gears with Greddy Street-Special N1 RB26 camshafts on my rb26 motor, when I build it and install into my stagea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...