Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah that was my worry . was a rather last second decisions to buy the rims and i was 99% sure i won't win them at the price i bid, however i did! So will most likly swap my street tyres onto the nismo rims and use my advan for track stuff (they are 9.5j +19) and see how that goes.

What guard was fouling the front or rear? (or both)

Risking not sure if that was directed at me or not but my last track car was far from a posser race car lol so i think the gtr will be fine.

Thanks Djr about the turbo info. i am thinking if my goal is speed event series then the gt-ss or garrett similar will be the go, whatever i can find cheapest at the time.

Well I have the -5 Garretts on my 32 R & to be honest I don't have any real issue with lag. Just leave stock cams in it & bolt on some cam gears. If you are only running 400rwhp (like me) then it isn't turbolag that is going to be the issue it is just outright lack of grunt. Jimmah Eames R33 R that won the Collie hillclimb has phone numbers for rwhp as an example. On the tight and twisty SES rounds (like Busso, Jacks hill, Mt Clarence) the Emo's go better than the GT-R's anyway. Steve Jones flogged everyone at Busso in his.

But as long as the motor will punch out of second gear fiddly chicanes it will be fine on the hillclimbs.

The tyres fouled the guards at the rear. You need to roll the lip out of them to stop the side of the tyre getting gouged. The front wont be a problem as you have to run heaps of neg camber to try & make the car push less so the top of a +22 usually ends up well inside the guard lip. If you run alot of castor the tyre can & will scrape the front of the guard liner but that is only plastic & doesn't really hurt anyone/thing.

As for tyres every man & his dog runs SR2 RE55's on GT-R's. Go & see Kerry Wade at Bridgestone in Bentley. Should be about $2k for the four.

  • 2 weeks later...

hmm

got my hks piping kit few weeks ago, and can tell you not very happy with the quality of the piping kit was hoping it was top level but isn't really :S debating if i should sell up and try the nismo or trust kit. having a feeling that the only quality one will be nismo (but the price tag is a killer)

my issue is not with the kit alignment but surface finish on the inside of the pipe. I am picky and its not 100% perfect but will pretty good

Also i have a feeling the piping kit will not fit with my ARC airbox which is going to be an ass to change (and dont plane too)

I just need to confirm if it will fit or not but like i said im almost 100% sure it wont which means i will have to use the nismo kit

Edited by Kaido_RR

Can confirm that your arc airbox will not fit.. i bought one a while back and ended up selling it.. even with me not running afm's it still didnt fit..

i've forgotten what the inside looks like.. its all in pieces here actually i shall check for you today.

If anyone isnt happy with those pipes for an R32 i could be interested. There are plenty of reasons why i would prefer a rougher internal finish

I agree, super smooth ports and inlet piping are shite for airflow. As the inlet air sticks to the piping / port walls and slows down.

Edit - think of a golf ball vs a pingpong ball, which one goes faster through the air.

yeah me like trust. good kit. fit nice and don't blow off.

don't worry about the rates of your helper springs. all they do is keep the main spring captive under droop. stops them rattling or coming away from the upper mount. as soon as the car is on the ground they are full compressed and just act as a spacer they are usually only rated high enough to hold the main spring up nice and firmly against the upper mount.

I have a thing against the HKS because of the shallow ramps on the hose retainers..... seen more HKS pipework blow off more than any other.

I've never had a blowoff and was running upwards of 2bar. i did however have a blowup... haha

I've never had a blowoff and was running upwards of 2bar. i did however have a blowup... haha

Yeah I've never once had any pipes blow off on my own vehicles (touch wood) because I'm so totally anal about fitting it properly to avoid it, but have seen many many others do it. I just think if fitment of the HKS version is even slightly lax, there'll be a problem.

Yeah I've never once had any pipes blow off on my own vehicles (touch wood) because I'm so totally anal about fitting it properly to avoid it, but have seen many many others do it. I just think if fitment of the HKS version is even slightly lax, there'll be a problem.

This is true, on some of the pipes the lip is made up from a bit of welding blob done on the outsides.. i didnt expect this from hks but it does the job.

I agree, super smooth ports and inlet piping are shite for airflow. As the inlet air sticks to the piping / port walls and slows down.

Edit - think of a golf ball vs a pingpong ball, which one goes faster through the air.

hmm never through about it like that, maybe there is hope for the kit still :P

my hks kit has lips around the edge of each pipe so, i shouldn't have an issue with blow off, if i end up using it

If anyone isnt happy with those pipes for an R32 i could be interested. There are plenty of reasons why i would prefer a rougher internal finish

i think mine might be for sale, as i might try to use the nismo hard piping kit

this photo gives me hope

engine7.jpg

however nismo doesn't make the hard piping kit for the bnr32.... however i have found a nismo hard piping kit plus i/c piping kit for a bnr32... not im not sure if its worth the gamble to see if it fits or not (nismo hard piping kit is something like 150,000yen or something)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...