Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

turbos are r33 n1 so steel wheel.

I highly recomend ditching them in favor of some garret -5's. R33 N1's are laaaaagy, they will handle a tonne of boost...but you need a tonne of boost. Dad ran 25psi all Targa this year, and the turbo's are still like new.

My GT2530's (-5's) are 1000rpm more responsive for the same power.

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I highly recomend ditching them in favor of some garret -5's. R33 N1's are laaaaagy, they will handle a tonne of boost...but you need a tonne of boost. Dad ran 25psi all Targa this year, and the turbo's are still like new.

My GT2530's (-5's) are 1000rpm more responsive for the same power.

yeah i notice they are very laggy, :S

was recommended -5 by my tuner, he advise if i keep the n1 i would need to rev them and open up the rev's more. and i will most likly get lag during gear change unless i turn up the rev past the stock limiter.

will see how they go on 18-20psi of boost, but its looking like the hks gt-ss or -5 will be the go at the end of the year.

out of interests what do -5 go for brand new?

what power did it make at 25psi?

Edited by Kaido_RR
I highly recomend ditching them in favor of some garret -5's. R33 N1's are laaaaagy, they will handle a tonne of boost...but you need a tonne of boost. Dad ran 25psi all Targa this year, and the turbo's are still like new.

My GT2530's (-5's) are 1000rpm more responsive for the same power.

Can attest to this, I have R33 N1's and make 431rwhp but the power is super laggy like your really not getting a good shove until 4500+, getting -5 early next year or this year money depending.

On built 32 GT-R.

Ok turbo choice are limited to two

HKS GT-SS or HKS GT2530

or garrett similar.

I would like to keep lag to min but still retain some top end, would i be able to achieve this with the gt-ss or will i need to go the 2530 power goal is 400-500hp but that isn't the important part i manily want good respones

Ok turbo choice are limited to two

HKS GT-SS or HKS GT2530

or garrett similar.

I would like to keep lag to min but still retain some top end, would i be able to achieve this with the gt-ss or will i need to go the 2530 power goal is 400-500hp but that isn't the important part i manily want good respones

Go have a read through the -5, -7, -9 thread, its approximately 40 pages long, however, fundamentally everything relating to the turbos your looking at and would want to know is in there, pretty insightful.

Personally I would choose the HKS 2530's although these are the most expensive option, I think should you choose the GT-SS's you will be very happy with the response (which is excellent as I've experienced first hand) you will want more power, especially as this is track oriented, consider that you will NOT make much more (relatively) then 300-330AWKW on PULP with GT-SS's Whilst 2530's should net you between 350 - 450 AWKW.

Edited by Nee-san
Go have a read through the -5, -7, -9 thread, its approximately 40 pages long, however, fundamentally everything relating to the turbos your looking at and would want to know is in there, pretty insightful.

Personally I would choose the HKS 2530's although these are the most expensive option, I think should you choose the GT-SS's you will be very happy with the response (which is excellent as I've experienced first hand) you will want more power, especially as this is track oriented, consider that you will NOT make much more (relatively) then 300-330AWKW on PULP with GT-SS's Whilst 2530's should net you between 350 - 450 AWKW.

Thanks :P

im leaning towards the gt-ss however i know the main track here in perth does like top-end however im trying to weight up how much track time will be done at the track and how much track time will be done a timed auto-cross/tarmac rally events. As i have a feeling the gt-ss will help more in the tight events

Thanks :P

im leaning towards the gt-ss however i know the main track here in perth does like top-end however im trying to weight up how much track time will be done at the track and how much track time will be done a timed auto-cross/tarmac rally events. As i have a feeling the gt-ss will help more in the tight events

I think the best thing for you to do mate is sit down and be honest with yourself about what exactly you are going to do with the car, break it down percentage wise if that makes it easier to think about, It really does make decisions about the direction you take your development alot simpler.

I did this when I was struggling with which way I wanted to go with my car.

For Autocross you couldn't possibly look past the GT-SS's

For Tarmac rally, and hill climbs again GT-SS's look very hard to pass on, however there is an argument for the bigger turbos depends whether you can actually use the power your making, remember its actually quite easy to add power to a race car and a hell of alot harder to make it faster in other ways once you have covered the basics.

In the end as I have said, It's about what you want from the car and what you want to do with it, the best thing about getting opinions, mine included is that you can take them and leave them.

another update,

just bought my set of track rims, however not sure if i went over board with the sizing

17x9.5 +12 plan is to run RE55s or AD048 in 255/40/17

Good thing is Nismo/rays state that sizing will clear big brakes (had issue with my old nismo rims not clearing my AP). Be interesteing to see if i run into issue once the car is lowed and alignment setup is done with the rim hitting the guards

another update,

just bought my set of track rims, however not sure if i went over board with the sizing

17x9.5 +12 plan is to run RE55s or AD048 in 255/40/17

Good thing is Nismo/rays state that sizing will clear big brakes (had issue with my old nismo rims not clearing my AP). Be interesteing to see if i run into issue once the car is lowed and alignment setup is done with the rim hitting the guards

What did you pay for those bad boys, PM if you don't feel comfortable saying in here ?

Be interesteing to see if i run into issue once the car is lowed and alignment setup is done with the rim hitting the guards

Highly unlikely on a BNR32. I run those exact sizes on my S14 track car with stock guards and they fit fine.

Also, what Nismo wheel were you running that they did not clear a 330mm 4pot AP? I am looking for a second set of 17s to clear 343mm and 4 pots

Nismo LMGT2 but i think it was more an issue of width and offset, running 9inch front with +35 won't clear the AP i needed to run a +15mm spacer.

My mate with the evo was keen to buy my rims so we test fitted them on his car even with the +15mm spacer won't clear the evo 7 brembos at the front

another update,

just bought my set of track rims, however not sure if i went over board with the sizing

17x9.5 +12 plan is to run RE55s or AD048 in 255/40/17

Good thing is Nismo/rays state that sizing will clear big brakes (had issue with my old nismo rims not clearing my AP). Be interesteing to see if i run into issue once the car is lowed and alignment setup is done with the rim hitting the guards

9.5's arent going to be anywhere near too wide.

Even 10s fit easy to a 32 with no guard work required.

I put 19x9.5+11's on a 32 recently and they fit pretty well at the back with stock camber and slight tire stretch.

For the track running a square tire you will probably either need camber arms or a slight pull to fit them all round or else run 4wd ride height.

Personally I would choose the HKS 2530's although these are the most expensive option.

Did you see the irony in your comment there?

He's gotta pick them by default then :D

Either way it's Garrett -9 (GT-SS) or the -5s (2530).

Buy the Garretts, for all intents and purposes they are same - HKS's are not worth the coin new.

-9s for tighter stuff = winner.

-5's for a track there top speed/top end is more important.

But if you are going to be doing more rally/khana type stuff then you want the response and transient gains the small turbo offers for quick on/off type stuff and much more progressive.

My GT-SS's will be for sale shortly (1month or so once i ge the motor out, motor buyer doesnt want em)... :(

Did you see the irony in your comment there?

He's gotta pick them by default then :D

Either way it's Garrett -9 (GT-SS) or the -5s (2530).

Buy the Garretts, for all intents and purposes they are same - HKS's are not worth the coin new.

-9s for tighter stuff = winner.

-5's for a track there top speed/top end is more important.

But if you are going to be doing more rally/khana type stuff then you want the response and transient gains the small turbo offers for quick on/off type stuff and much more progressive.

My GT-SS's will be for sale shortly (1month or so once i ge the motor out, motor buyer doesnt want em)... :(

Lol nismoid,

But everything /\ he's said is right, buy the GT-SS's off him or if you need the power go 2530's if you have the cash.

Ok turbo choice are limited to two

HKS GT-SS or HKS GT2530

or garrett similar.

I would like to keep lag to min but still retain some top end, would i be able to achieve this with the gt-ss or will i need to go the 2530 power goal is 400-500hp but that isn't the important part i manily want good respones

As the car is in Perth there are some things to go by.

If it is to be run at Wanneroo there really isn't much downside in the larger turbo.

If it is run in kharnas/AHG etc then get the smallest turbo that will make the power you are chasing.

Is the 400-500hp at the wheels or not?

17 x 10 +15 fit on GTR's with ease.
9.5's arent going to be anywhere near too wide.

Even 10s fit easy to a 32 with no guard work required.

I put 19x9.5+11's on a 32 recently and they fit pretty well at the back with stock camber and slight tire stretch.

For the track running a square tire you will probably either need camber arms or a slight pull to fit them all round or else run 4wd ride height.

A +22 rim on an R32 with a 255/40/17 RE55 will foul the guard. Mine did. So you will need work to clear +11's.

It is a track setup. Hence needs whatever camber/ride height makes the car go hard, not whatever is needed to make the tyre fit. Plus remember you will be (or should be) smashing the thing over kerbs to make lap time - which doesn't go well with all this flush fitment bullsht going about.

As the car is in Perth there are some things to go by.

If it is to be run at Wanneroo there really isn't much downside in the larger turbo.

If it is run in kharnas/AHG etc then get the smallest turbo that will make the power you are chasing.

Is the 400-500hp at the wheels or not?

A +22 rim on an R32 with a 255/40/17 RE55 will foul the guard. Mine did. So you will need work to clear +11's.

It is a track setup. Hence needs whatever camber/ride height makes the car go hard, not whatever is needed to make the tyre fit. Plus remember you will be (or should be) smashing the thing over kerbs to make lap time - which doesn't go well with all this flush fitment bullsht going about.

Yeah that was my worry . was a rather last second decisions to buy the rims and i was 99% sure i won't win them at the price i bid, however i did! So will most likly swap my street tyres onto the nismo rims and use my advan for track stuff (they are 9.5j +19) and see how that goes.

What guard was fouling the front or rear? (or both)

Risking not sure if that was directed at me or not but my last track car was far from a posser race car lol so i think the gtr will be fine.

Thanks Djr about the turbo info. i am thinking if my goal is speed event series then the gt-ss or garrett similar will be the go, whatever i can find cheapest at the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...