Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought i would post up my 98 V E85 tune. I didn't realise i was making such little power in the first place....229rwkw from a GT3040 (0.63) then with E85 252rwkw.

Sorry about the quality and no idea why it is sideways

Feel free to express your thoughts. I think something is wrong as my 550cc injectors hit 94% on cold nights. Still fun to drive though :D

IMG_0358.jpg

IMG_0359.jpg

Cheers

James

Edited by Bond
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335190-my-e85-experience/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah i was expecting the increased duty cycle but not above 90% Does anyone think it's running too rich?

Besides bad cold start (not a daily driver) it drives really well and is more responsive than before. Now having traction issues but i don't have the best tyres. First and second gear feel very similar but the torque in third and forth feels insane. Pulls hard all the way off the clock.

Edited by Bond
Alittle offtopic, but roughly how much power can 700cc injectors running E85 support?

Good question as ive got 720cc injectors, would e85 also clean the injectors and valves due to the alcohol content?

where in the Gold Coast area can you buy e85, how much is it?

Edited by boostn32
Good question as ive got 720cc injectors, would e85 also clean the injectors and valves due to the alcohol content?

where in the Gold Coast area can you buy e85, how much is it?

Yes, the whole engine and fuel system will probably be spotless, my exhaust was pretty clean too. :D Make sure you change the fuel filter soon after as it may get clogged.

Most places seem to sell it for around $1L, not sure what Caltex plans to sting us yet.

another hijack...

i'm pretty sure my 700cc injectors run at 85% with 320kw at the wheels..does that sound right? are there more people that have tested e85 with 700cc injectors? hopefully i can get away with the injectors i've got.

will i get away with the 280l/ph (from memory) upgraded in-tank pump if i run e85? i'm guessing i'll be headed to around 350kw at the wheels.

No one's mentioned the .63 rear on the turbo?

Could that be the reason it's peaking at 5300rpm and not getting the results wanted?

as for injectors funning out on that power, that's got me worried, as I'm soon to be on e85 running 550's :)

IMO the power has pretty much come from the additional boost, not the fuel at all, as Jez has already noted.

Something is not right with that setup, you should be making 250rwkw on PULP at least & around 280-300 on E85 (if not more).

Injectors under that much duty also is worrying.

Two things are pointing to setup issues.

No one's mentioned the .63 rear on the turbo?

Could that be the reason it's peaking at 5300rpm and not getting the results wanted?

as for injectors funning out on that power, that's got me worried, as I'm soon to be on e85 running 550's :)

Where does a GT3040 fit in size wise compared to a GT3071, GT3076 or GT3082? Is it smaller as the name suggests?

I remember reading a performance place (think it was ERD) recommending a 0.63 housing on a GT3082 on an RB25. But if a GT3040 is smaller than a GT3071 then a 0.63 housing is definitely too small.

I dont understand how joey gets so much power out of his injectors. I would expect 550s to peak out around 260-290rwkw on E85.

Yes I believe something is wrong but not really sure where to start. As I said earlier all I have really changed is the rear muffler (removed cannon and put an xforce twin pipe thing). With my current setup I probably couldn't get any more power to the ground but would like to figure out what's wrong.

GT3040 is the old description (larger comp wheel), or what everyone else calls a GT3082 these days.

So its the larger of the GT30XX family compared to a 3071

Well if thats the case, 0.63 housing should still make a lot more than what he is.

I mean hiflowed standard turbos make more than that.

Interesting the power falls over at about 5,500rpm. Also the dyno only goes up to ~6,200rpm?? Something seems wrong, unless the rpm on the dynosheet is not correct.

Edited by Harey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...