Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A friend of mine recently lost his license and plans to lock his R34 GT away for 6months but was concerned about any damage he might do to the car if its not driven. Anyone have any suggestions as to what he can do before he locks it up, or anything he should be wary of once he starts driving it again?

Only thing I can think of is:

Lock it up in garage out of the weather.

Disconnect the battery.

Baby it till you empty that first tank as the fuel might go stale.

Is it worth starting up every month or two and running for a bit, or even getting someone else to drive it around the block, or will 6 months do nothing? I understand these cars often sit for much longer periods in Japan before coming here.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339300-storing-a-car-for-6-months/
Share on other sites

im in the same boat as your friend.. although not from the lack of licence.. more due to economic reasons lol.

theres no straight answer for this really. depends on a few things although 6 months isnt really all that long. i think the things you already mentioned almost covers it. but yes it would be a good idea to run it and have it driven maybe once every month or every second month or whatever he can be bothered doing. the tyres will probably go down slowly and if they go down enough to get a good droop on and the car just sits there on them that can permanently distort the shape of them and they'll be rubbish when he goes to drive it again.

when i bought my current skyline, it had been sitting untouched for 18 months (dont know if it was inside or outside) and within a few months of owning it, the head gasket blew. now that engine was supposedly only built about 6 months prior to going into storage.

but yea i pretty much just do what you mentioned. get it out of the weather and disconnect the battery. although i do take it for a quick squirt up the road every month or 2 so the head gasket doesnt disintegrate again

left mine for 7 months while i was living in Japan. one big tip i would recommend is to put mouse baits around as the car stunk when i got back and there was crap under the back seat. i guess in the boot or under the car would do the trick!!

I have done it with mine on more than one occasion.

Get it inside. Dis connect the battery, fill the washer bottle etc, and just go.

I had a fresh oil change in mine and a full tank of gas. Came back after 5 months, put the battery on, started it up and drove away.

I might also recommend bumping up the PSi in the tires a few PSI, that, or if its possible try chuck it on axle stands. OR if you have them, put the stock wheels back on just so you dont get flat spots on the tires :P

The way i did it, was fine. So i guess it depends on how paranoid you are. I didnt get flat spots. Think i upped the PSI in mine to around 45.

don't forget pretty much every skyline is aus has spent 6 months sitting around at auctions/docks/compliancers as well.

other than dead battery (always disconnect, and if possible charge it every few weeks), I've never had any problem. And my car is often off the road :P

my car sat for 9-10months in my garage.. i had mine on a trickle type charger.. Got in.. started it up and let it run for a bit on idle.. And away I went..

If you can go back and start it up every month, it wouldnt hurt to do that..

be a myth that it would sieze up. i have a VH commodore that was sitting out in the weather under a tree for 3 years or more and was never started. new battery, bit of fuel down the carby and it started straight up.

if you can start it every month or 2 just to run the aircon to prevent any seals/o-rings drying out is worth while, other than that, not much to do.

if you are worried about flat spots on tyres, simply roll the car forwards a few inches in either direction after a month or 2.

My supra prior to me owning it, did 4k kms in 11 years - last 4 years it hadn't seen any driving. Was stored in a heated garage, under covers.

Disconnected battery, old 11 year old oil and no idea how old fuel, started and drove perfect.

mythssssssssss

prior to me getting my car from grandparents it did only 45,000km in 19.5 years 1990 - 2009

2300km/year.

from 2003+ i would start and run it for 5 min each week/ 2 weeks. and keep it charged.

Was kept under some sheets, in covered shed. As is, no car stands.

I've had to go through this .. my recommendations would be: park in garage and make sure it's alarmed/immobilized, don't use handbrake just put it in gear, roll it back and forth once a week/fortnight and let it idle for a few mins once a fortnight so nothing dries out completely (internally), disconnect battery, recharge battery once a fortnight using trickle charger, put some of those dehumidifier bags under seats. After six months, change the oil.

I also change the fuel as it does degrade after a few months and mine's turned for 98ron. Easiest way to disconnect the fuel return line and simply let it idle ... obviously put the return line into a bucket to collect the old fuel. After 5-10 mins it will empty out the tank and stall. Get a canister of fresh bp ultimate and off you go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...