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logic says volume and velocity past the compressor is higher than what is in front of the compressor?

isnt that the point of the compressor.... ?

i prefer to run the hot side of the cooler the same ID as the turbo outlet (2.25" - 2.5") and the cool side of the cooler piping the same size as the throttle body. We have run 300+ rwkw on 2.25" (60mm) hot piping and saw no increase when going to 3"

My stock intake pipe vacume shut at 254kw with gcg high flow. This resulted in major power drop from 5000rpm onwards. I have an r33 94 model and from what i have seen some stock intake pipes can handle this power and beyond and others let go. All depends on luck of the draw. I installed metal 3inch pipe inside stock intake but this mod did jack shit for me.

I went to Just jap and sourced an aftermarket rubber reinforced intake pipe and bolted it in. I run stock air box and everything looks factory to the untrained eye. Problems went away and works perfect now, full boost all the way . Yavuz from Unigroup engineering is recommending them to other customers with this common problem and similar set ups with 2.5 inch turbo inlets.

Installation only required some minor trimming of the black JJR intake pipe rubber to make perfect fitment. Im sure with this rubber intake you can run 290kw without any serious modification to intake set up, and you get to keep the stock air box(cops cream themselves over stock air boxes here in nsw)

These days it doesnt pay to look good so the trend is maximum power while maintaining stealth look.

My stock intake pipe vacume shut at 254kw with gcg high flow. This resulted in major power drop from 5000rpm onwards. I have an r33 94 model and from what i have seen some stock intake pipes can handle this power and beyond and others let go. All depends on luck of the draw. I installed metal 3inch pipe inside stock intake but this mod did jack shit for me.

I went to Just jap and sourced an aftermarket rubber reinforced intake pipe and bolted it in. I run stock air box and everything looks factory to the untrained eye. Problems went away and works perfect now, full boost all the way . Yavuz from Unigroup engineering is recommending them to other customers with this common problem and similar set ups with 2.5 inch turbo inlets.

Installation only required some minor trimming of the black JJR intake pipe rubber to make perfect fitment. Im sure with this rubber intake you can run 290kw without any serious modification to intake set up, and you get to keep the stock air box(cops cream themselves over stock air boxes here in nsw)

These days it doesnt pay to look good so the trend is maximum power while maintaining stealth look.

Do you have a link to this Just Jap product?

Do you mean the silicone intake pipe: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=272&page=2

What do you mean the 3 inch pipe inside the stock intake did jack shit? Did it still suck closed? Or did it suck closed at the 2.5" section? Or did it just not make any more power?

I made a 3" to 2.5" alloy intake pipe on the weekend for my R33 and it now makes a billiontty more killerwasps... (not...)

Seat of the pants dyno says no different to stock rubber intake with a bit of 3" stainless pipe inside. But that is only at 10psi on the stock turbo so who knows...

Edited by Yeedogga
Do you have a link to this Just Jap product?

Do you mean the silicone intake pipe: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=272&page=2

What do you mean the 3 inch pipe inside the stock intake did jack shit? Did it still suck closed? Or did it suck closed at the 2.5" section? Or did it just not make any more power?

Thats the same JJ intake pipe i used in my car, great product, highly recommended.

The three inch pipe inside my stock rubber intake did not rectify my vacume sealing. The small rubber section that slips onto the front of turbo was closing under boost after i did this modification. When i installed the JJ item, car performed beautiful all through rev range. No vacume syndrome and looks stealth. The JJ silicone pipe is reinforced and very thick. You will need to trim it and dummy fit a few times but it will look like magic once you get it to fit. Just take your time and dont butcher it.

I can arrange some photos if you get excited enough ....

30kw difference from changing intake pipe? If it was vacuuming shut thats understandable, but if its not its really hard to believe. Im running a 3076 with a 4 inch opening, running a reducer from turbo to a 3 inch stainless pipe going to afm into stock airbox. 281rwkw

30kw difference from changing intake pipe? If it was vacuuming shut thats understandable, but if its not its really hard to believe. Im running a 3076 with a 4 inch opening, running a reducer from turbo to a 3 inch stainless pipe going to afm into stock airbox. 281rwkw

Agree 100%, how can you get a 30kw gain from using a different intake pipe that is exactly the same size? The only difference is the material. The standard one must have been sucking shut.

Interesting you are running the stock airbox, I was doing some research on this forum and I found a post by you:

"Standard airbox is shit and restrictive. Car makes 280rwkw with the custom air intake I got, but with the standard airbox in it's own only made 270rwkw. I'll have my extra 10kw thanks. I got an intake setup that would pass you an EPA or a defect just because it looks like I have an airbox . If you wanna know it pm me

btw only talking about the standard r33 gtst airbox. Gtr ones are probably better hence you can make decent power with them withou being too restrictive."

What changed?

Thats the same JJ intake pipe i used in my car, great product, highly recommended.

The three inch pipe inside my stock rubber intake did not rectify my vacume sealing. The small rubber section that slips onto the front of turbo was closing under boost after i did this modification. When i installed the JJ item, car performed beautiful all through rev range. No vacume syndrome and looks stealth. The JJ silicone pipe is reinforced and very thick. You will need to trim it and dummy fit a few times but it will look like magic once you get it to fit. Just take your time and dont butcher it.

I can arrange some photos if you get excited enough ....

Thats the ticket, perfect solution.

silintakepiperb.jpg

Thats the ticket, perfect solution.

silintakepiperb.jpg

Ok I suppose its less prone to sucking shut near the turbo, would be smoother and seems to have more space around the fittings so that they dont disrupt flow.

Does putting hose clamps around the flex part of the stock intake make much of an improvement for the people where it is sucking shut?

I'm getting a boost drop with my highflow and I'm not sure if it is just the wastegate blowing open or if it is something simpler like this.

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