Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got no muffler and instead two pipes that run out from about the diff back...seen those selling in option mag b4, but no idea what they are called. Can someone tell me? Sounds very good but loud. Also have a resonator b4 the end pipes.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mrgts4,

your method is simple, but does it work, the big brand companys spend hours and hours on r&d and dynoing there products to make sure they work.

going with a shop built system may actually cost u hp.

i would pick a brand name jap exhaust everytime.

if the exhaust shop knows what they are doing then, there is no resone why they would not be as good as a big brand name...... the idea in an after market exhaust is to get better flow..... i got my one done as a coustom made one, it sit a lot high up than most big name brands and give just as good hp if not better....

i got a khs super dragger, and is quiter than most out there...

Had the EPA do a test, and it registered 87... (cat back only)

Thing to note though is that if you change the cats and dump pipe, it will be louder than just a cat back...

You can pick up cat back exhuasts pretty cheap...and most decent exhaust shops know how to weld and not to bend a system to much...

the only real "Japanese" part I would invest in due to the R&D is the muffler and dump pipe as these two elements contribute significantly to flow. Add to this the flow of the cat and resonators and the rest is JUST pipe...pipe is pipe is pipe.

I currently have only a 3 inch cat back bolt on system from 5 Zigan...bloody big rear muffler but nice a quiet, does have a crap resonator that I am removing shortly the whole system is modular so I can get a section made without a res, bolt in for some occassions and bolt in the straight pipe for others...flows 100 times better than stock yet to dyno though...

I have done the same. At the moment I am using a twin tip stainless straight through muffler from JustJap. 3" inlet and dual 2" outlet. Looks quite stock but sounds very nice.

Two 2" outlets is smaller than one 3" outlet....

surface area of circle = pi * r^2

So for 3" outlet = pi * 1.5 * 1.5 = approx 7.07 square inches

And for 2 2" outlets = pi * 1 *1 * (2 pipes) = approx 6.28 square inches

So your tip is essentially the equivalent of a 2.8 inch exhaust

Anyhow, I cant speak for any other type of exhaust, but the HKS super dragger is great in terms of noise. Very quite compared to a lot of others, and I dare to guestimate that it will fall within limits. Only drawback is that it hangs rather low, as the pipes have minimal bends in them...

Hmm... this just makes me think "why buy a pricey name brand catback when you could almost afford a 3inch from the turbo and a decent tip?".

I spent 1300 at western mufflers in fairfield. got a 3 inch mandrel bent zorst from the turbo back with a 5inch tip, is shiny too. Not too loud, good power looks good too.

if your even considering the high end name brand cat backs just save some cash and go all the way from the turbo with a no name.

I paid $250 for my HKS super dragger + $20 to weld a flange coz it was previously welded onto the cat for some reason, got the front and dump from Hi Tech in that group buy a while ago, and the 3" hi flow cat from BATMBL when he had the group buy going, installed it all myself, so I paid well under $1000 for my whole system.

Sure if you got an all new jap brand fron the turbo back and got someone lese to fit it, it would cost you a pretty penny, but if you look around for a good bargain, I'm sure, and have proven you can do well for a good price!

I tend to agree with bobjones here. I think the important parts to get brand names are the muffler and dump, because as he said, the rest is just pipe. I'm still deciding whether to get a split dump or a single pipe as i've heard a few mixed reports about the split dump doing nothing, and others saying that it gives them a decent increase.

After installing a CES split front/dump pipe I couldnt recommend them enough. Build quality is awesome and my car gained 7rwkw when running 2psi less boost. They're a bit pricey but worth every cent IMO.

After installing a CES  split front/dump pipe I couldnt recommend them enough. Build quality is awesome and my car gained 7rwkw when running 2psi less boost. They're a bit pricey but worth every cent IMO.

The front dump if it is split, has to take into account that there is going to be some cross flow from the internal waste gate and the other pipe, it is vertually impossible to completely separate the two, thus why large turbo's run external gates. CES have developed a really good product and have put several on 200's with very good results. i intend to get one as they are comparable if not better than the HKS items, and add to that the ease o dealing with an Aust co.

However, saying that the Aust muffler, most of which are cannon style which I hate with a PASSION, are crap, I really like my fat arse muffler will post a pic if I can find my digi cam...

:( Einstein!

Im quite aware of this.

Two 2" outlets is smaller than one 3" outlet....

surface area of circle = pi * r^2

So for 3" outlet = pi * 1.5 * 1.5 = approx 7.07 square inches

And for 2 2" outlets = pi * 1 *1 * (2 pipes) = approx 6.28 square inches

So your tip is essentially the equivalent of a 2.8 inch exhaust

Anyhow, I cant speak for any other type of exhaust, but the HKS super dragger is great in terms of noise. Very quite compared to a lot of others, and I dare to guestimate that it will fall within limits. Only drawback is that it hangs rather low, as the pipes have minimal bends in them...

Just for those who think a 3" exhaust is a 3"exhaust, I know a guy who owns an R32 GTR, had a cat back locally made (jap one died) and it just felt lifeless and doughy by comparison.

the locally made 3" exhaust was removed (they used local flanges when it was made). the dump looked ok, so it was cut at the right length and a jap system fitted from there back.

result, car was back to its old self again.

they may look the same, but it doesnt mean they are the same.

before any of you that have had local made systems fitted gets upset with me, I am not saying YOUR system is bad, just sharing an experience with someone who wants to ask the question.

:( Einstein!

Im quite aware of this.

dont get upset now, I was just pointing something out.

I dont know you, so I have no other way of finding out you knew this.....

If you knew though, I'm curious as to why (other than the sleeper look) you didnt go for a 3" tip?

Piping also isn't always piping. The surface quality inside the piping can affect exhaust flow. When you put an silencer on the N1, you lose a little top end power, but gain some mid-range torque (according to the APEXi website). It supposedly drops the noise level by 7dB.

I agree. just put an N1 silencer on today. I can't tell of any power drop, car drives the same way but with a more EPA & "fussy neighbours" friendly sound. Didn't test the noise level with the silencer on though, would love to know someday.

Mine is basically a bits'n'pieces system. Started off with a Fujitsubo cat back 3 inch system. Was pretty quiet, but the muffler was baffled and it didn't do a great deal for horsepower. Had a 3 inch dump pipe made up and a 3 inch high flow cat fitted. Still quiet, a fair power gain. But on Monday I went the whole hog and had the resonator chopped out, a piece of pipe welded in and swapped the muffler for a 3 inch cannon with a 5 inch tip. So it's all basically straight through except for the cat. Theres a few bends here and there, But I don't think I'd really notice the difference if they weren't there. Rumbles a fair bit even when your idling along. But it's not too bad. Hasn't brought any cop attention yet (touch wood). But when I floor it, damn does it howl!

dont get upset now, I was just pointing something out.

I dont know you, so I have no other way of finding out you knew this.....

If you knew though, I'm curious as to why (other than the sleeper look) you didnt go for a 3" tip?

Sorry for biting your head off there.

I just did it to be different. To attract less attention (it may or may not succeed in doing that) and because I like the appearance of two largish stainless tips.

Overall flow is probably down on the average 3, 4 or 5 inch tip but im sure there are other factors in the exhaist that are more restrictive like my cat-convertor which make the overall difference trivial.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...