Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Will be collecting parts soon for my big single conversion but before i start buying id like to see what people think is the best gate setup to control the boost up to 1.5bar without any spiking or boost curve falling over. Basically want to know from the people who have done it, how you would do it if you did it again.

Since engine is standard Ill be running the turbo at around 1.1-1.2bar for now then it will probably see 1.5bar once the engine is built and a better fuel system is in place.

First q)

Ive seen people run 44mm and also 50mm, not sure which one i need - id have to know which one i want to run before i get a manifold made up correct?

IF i was to go for a twinscroll manifold and had a twinscroll version of the gt35, do i absolutely need 2 gates or can i run 1 big gate with 2 sources off the merge collector without any problems? has anyone done this with the gt35 twin scrolled?

I want to be able to run the exact same turbo kit once the motor is built to handle 500-550hp.

Ill be getting a 6boost manifold made up but im just not sure on what size gate to run and wether or not i should bother having the gate source off the turbo ex housing or off the merge collector, ive seen both.. whats the difference??

Please post what gate setups (brand size pressure source etc) you have used and if you have had any issues with them + i guess the ebc used would be important too! ill be running a profec b spec 2 unless someone on here tells me it wont be up the task

cheers!

oz

Edited by snozzle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340372-best-gate-size-for-my-application/
Share on other sites

Its off the turbo housing on my GT35 on a Sinco customs manifold (similar to 6boost) because that provides the most direct route for the exhaust gasses. I have a 50mm Synapse w/g - I don't think it can be too big but it can be too small so I should be ok (engine still out so it hasn't been run yet.

if you can go the bigger gate, we've had issues with boost creep and the 6 boost manifolds. If possible get an ungated 6boost version and run the gate off the housing.

Ill be getting a 6boost manifold made up but im just not sure on what size gate to run and wether or not i should bother having the gate source off the turbo ex housing or off the merge collector, ive seen both.. whats the difference??

Talk to Kyle and ask him.

People have had boost creep issue's on those manifolds with less than 50mm gates (from reading a few threads over the years). Not sure of the exact reason behind it.

I believe a 50mm is recommended at a min to stop this. It does go against the theory, which would suggests a 45mm gate would be perfectly fine.

For my GT30 (600hp) I used a Turbosmart 45mm gate and it was perfectly fine @ 24psi.

And for some theory reading, have a look here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...zes-t43638.html

Talk to Kyle and ask him.

People have had boost creep issue's on those manifolds with less than 50mm gates (from reading a few threads over the years). Not sure of the exact reason behind it.

I believe a 50mm is recommended at a min to stop this. It does go against the theory, which would suggests a 45mm gate would be perfectly fine.

For my GT30 (600hp) I used a Turbosmart 45mm gate and it was perfectly fine @ 24psi.

And for some theory reading, have a look here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...zes-t43638.html

is your gate one of the new generation 45mm? they seem to punch above their weight flow wise... its the smaller tial ones we had issues with, swapped it to a 50mm and issue solved.

4640t.jpg

Nah this was going back 5 years. Was a old progate from memory. I think i have a picture of it somewhere, will check later.

Turbosmart stopped making 45mm gates and went to 48mm/teflon coated for a while and now have 45mm's back again, although this was a few year ago.

if you can go the bigger gate, we've had issues with boost creep and the 6 boost manifolds. If possible get an ungated 6boost version and run the gate off the housing.

I would love to get your insight into what is wrong with my set up then. I got my kit off ETM which is similar to 6Boost again with an un gated manifold and it runs off the housing with a Tial 44mm gate and it won't even come close to controlling boost. My kit is coming off to go back to him to get modded to run like a conventional set up.

The only thing i can see different to the number of these on this site and mine is where mine is plumbed into the housing.

We tapped a new vac feed with bigger vac line, disassembled the wastegate to check if anything was wrong. It was perfectly fine. Changed to a brand new Turbosmart 45mm gate and same issue. Past 5000rpm it spikes past both the 14psi spring pressure and 10psi spring pressure to 21psi we even went as far as to dropping off the screamer pipe to eliminate that as a cause and still spiking.

This was all with no EBC and should just be running spring pressure. So i will be going to wastegate off the manifold set up.

Mine is a GT3582R with 0.82 ex housing also

snozzle, cant talk from experiance, but i have a 6boost a GT35 with .82 rear and a turbosmart 48mm progate with a 21psi spring combo,

going on a built 26.

the gate is off the manifold, right at the merge collector

Thanks for the replies guys but i still have question marks in my head.

I will give kyle a call very soon and see what my options are.

Daniel when will that setup be in action? Would love to see how it goes and how much power it ends up making :devil:

snozzle, cant talk from experiance, but i have a 6boost a GT35 with .82 rear and a turbosmart 48mm progate with a 21psi spring combo,

going on a built 26.

the gate is off the manifold, right at the merge collector

Thats where mine will be getting located i'd say

I was talking to simon-r32 regarding the position of the wastegate being on the merge collector and he tells me its not very efficient as the gases flyright past it. Makes sense if the manifold is flowing really well.

Have you tried a 50mm gate? got pics of your yoursetup and how its been welded? maybe is not in the most optimal position ?

I was talking to simon-r32 regarding the position of the wastegate being on the merge collector and he tells me its not very efficient as the gases flyright past it. Makes sense if the manifold is flowing really well.

Have you tried a 50mm gate? got pics of your yoursetup and how its been welded? maybe is not in the most optimal position ?

Had a quick chat with Paul from Red R Racing and thats what he said in regards to my set up

Here is a pic for reference

post-39081-1287056047_thumb.jpg

I was talking to simon-r32 regarding the position of the wastegate being on the merge collector and he tells me its not very efficient as the gases flyright past it. Makes sense if the manifold is flowing really well.

thats exactly why kyle recommends bigger gates with his manifolds, because the efficiency of the manifold means theres not much exhaust flow down the gate pipe.

i think when i was enquiring about one he recommended a 60mm gate for that reason

Edited by JonnoHR31

For reference here is a HKS display engine with a good look as to how the wastegate is plumbed in. Obviously this would use at minimum the 50mm wastegate they produce.

Although on the subject of wastegate size. Standard XR6 turbo with upgraded 0.7 A/R comp cover and running the same 44mm tial gate with the same exhaust mod as mine and it runs perfect...

post-39081-1287056206_thumb.jpg

Edited by Weapon

I have been running this combo for 2 years now daily with no dramas. It's built 25 with GT3582R and TIAL44mm gate on 6boost manifold and Haltech E11 ECU,running 19psi and 24 psi.

Hope it helps.

is your gate one of the new generation 45mm? they seem to punch above their weight flow wise... its the smaller tial ones we had issues with, swapped it to a 50mm and issue solved.

4640t.jpg

Knew i had one somewhere :D

post-709-1287070240_thumb.jpg

Ok looks like I was wrong to say your gate can't be too big but the literature that comes with the GT35 emphasises having the most direct route for the waste gate and that would seem to support having it come off the housing as recommended by Trent and also my manifold maker.

If you called up kyle, he would have recommended a 50mm turbosmart gate :whistling:

I am using this setup, so are a few other cars built by my mechanic with absolutely no drama's.

Also have had NO problems with the gate comming off the collector of the manifold, he fabs them that way for a reason right...

Edited by r33cruiser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
    • Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...   Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!
×
×
  • Create New...