Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread is started out of being bored.

What do you guys think is the best 2L engine?

Could be anything.

- Iron or alloy

- 4/6/8 cylinder

- V/inline/boxer

- non-turbo/supercharged or turbo

- SOHC/DOHC

- Petrol/Diesel

Why do you think it's such a good engine?

Discuss.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Naturally aspirated and a common production car engine, Opel/Vauxhall C20XE.

1988. 110kw, 196NM. Can buy one second hand from a wrecked Calibra for a few hundred bucks.

Popular engine in the UK, used in Westfields over there and Formula 3 here in Australia. In racing guise with cams, throttle bodies, high compression pistons, engine management, people have obtained 190-200kw.

/thread

In before SR20...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/#findComment-5498636
Share on other sites

-3S-G(T)E: Stupidly underrated I reckon, though they lack the applications (only come in celica, MR2 in performance guise) so this is why they never get/got as much attention as say, an SR or 4G63...

-SR20VE(T): The top of the range SRs are guns... SR20VET only uses SEVEN psi and makes 206kw, and they are typically bulletproof when taken care of...

At the end of the day, when talking about performance motors, comparing factory specs is a little silly, cos the manufacturers had limitations when designing them (emissions, applicationas, 'gentleman's agreements').

The true test of a motor is when used in motorsport IMO, so that's when the likes of Cosworths and Alfa GTV motors shine. I reckon most popular 2Ls are only as good as the work done to them, i.e. spend enough money on anything, and you could have the 'best' 2L...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/#findComment-5498729
Share on other sites

3S Motors are poo, more oiling problems than 10 RB's put together

Really? My bad I thought they were underrated.

But that's my point, given any amount of money, you could fix said oiling problems, and anything else, then you'd have a great motor you know?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/#findComment-5498776
Share on other sites

Any L4 nissan motor with a OS TC-16 head.

Lz20b turbo, as seen in group 5 dr30, s12 and 910 bluebird.

FJ20. abit heavy though.

Ford pinto with a connaught 'warrior' head as seen below.

270hp with 50mm webers

Edited by works 510
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/#findComment-5498925
Share on other sites

after my girfriend bought a SIL80 i have become a SR20 fan, it was better than my 25 almost every where except for the very top end. I dont know if they are the best but in terms of making power on the cheap they are bloody hard to beat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340573-the-2l-thread/#findComment-5498959
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...