Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I looked into actual 2860RS' (instead of the high flow I had), 2871s, 2876s, 3071s, T518zs, TD05s, TD06s, RX6s, etc etc etc ad nauseum, I now know more about those than I'll ever have the need to, while the 6258 may not be the best 'bang for buck' for most punters, for my dollar, it was the only way to go.

As you go along, can you kindly list items you have bought or modified in order to get it running well?

It would certainly benefit the whole community.

Sure thing. :)

The list so far,

Manifold (not strictly necessary)

Intake pipe

Outlet pipe

Dump pipe

Water fitting on the block (comp cover fouls it, yet to trial any solutions)

Oil drain line

So far that's it. I can't foresee any other issues aside from those. But I'll post them as they come.

  • 2 weeks later...

4) The BP ratio should be intake pressure higher than exh pressure, until approx 5500rpm. from that point to redline, it should be 1:1

Geoff,

From reading around maximum is 2.5:1 ex/in pressure ratio. I have checked with the matchbot for both the 6255 and 6258, both exceed your 1:1, ratio. They are 1.6:1 and 1.5:1 pressure ratios, respectively. From talking to several tuners. This is optinum.

Ultimately I been trying to compare them to the GT2860r-5's, and if they fare well I will purchase a pair of EFRs.

I could use help by a dyno chart of either 6255 or 6258, and the boost graph included. This would help my decision matrix.

Thanks,

Joe

Edited by Sidwysracr

Sure thing. :)

The list so far,

Manifold (not strictly necessary)

Intake pipe

Outlet pipe

Dump pipe

Water fitting on the block (comp cover fouls it, yet to trial any solutions)

Oil drain line

So far that's it. I can't foresee any other issues aside from those. But I'll post them as they come.

Is your motor built? If not, what is your expectation for things breaking down? Including your said manifold.

I may be running an SR soon and am out of touch with their capabilities.

Unopened. :)

I played with the idea of a simple rebuild while I was waiting, but knowing how things snowball, I decided against it to save my bank account.

Only internal modifications will be a set of BC step 2 cams. I'll likely go back to standard manifold, don't much like the design of the A'pexi.

Aiming for 250 on a nice safe E85 tune. Another 30 or so before I start worrying about the bottom end.

My only concern at this stage is the gearbox. I reckon I'll lunch that well before the motor shows signs of going to the scrap heap in the sky.

well I have some news. have a set of 6258s for a GTR on the way now. :) Full kit with full race manifolds, twin 6258s etc. This particular car has run -5s and -10s so it'll be a great comparison. I'm hoping for -10 power with -5 driveability.... I think they'll deliver but there's only one way to find out..... bear in mind they are quite a bit of airflow. 44lb each is a lot of powa for a little 2.6L engine.... :)

well I have some news. have a set of 6258s for a GTR on the way now. :) Full kit with full race manifolds, twin 6258s etc. This particular car has run -5s and -10s so it'll be a great comparison. I'm hoping for -10 power with -5 driveability.... I think they'll deliver but there's only one way to find out..... bear in mind they are quite a bit of airflow. 44lb each is a lot of powa for a little 2.6L engine.... :)

Keen to see results here

So twin high mounts? How 90's JDM of you Mr Baron!

lol. they should be awesome.

Consider this. look at the EFR range and consider the 9180 flows 94lb/min. a single 6258 flows 44lb/min I would say it's not unreasonable to expect them to produce 80lb/min combined in a twin GTR set-up. that's 800hp of air.

the car they are going on has run 2530s/-5s and made the usual 350kw or so. it's also run GTRS/-10s and made the usual 400+ kw but with typical surge down low that's a pig to drive through (even on the track).

I would like to think these will be close to the -10 power but with close to -5 response. I wouldn't be disappointed if they make a little less than the -10s but without the surge down low and with fat midrange.

I'm not sure if anyone else has bought a set from full race for a GTR apart from the one in the US they tested on. so this may be the first 'retail' set that goes out the door.

hope to have them arrive next week.

The other turbo I got from BW/FR is here and has already been pipped up etc and should be running very, very soon. it's the big boy 9180. another mate of mine has a 8374 coming soon so it'll be interesting to compare the 3. in power terms it goes 8374 then twin 6258 then single 9180. I'm keen to see if that's how it plays out in real life and what kind of power/response compromise we get. the only difference really is the 9180 is on a 3L the other 2 are both 2.6.

Unopened. :)

Awesome. I might 'boost it till it blows' with mine and see what comes about. Its been making 200odd @ 14pound since I built it in 03ish so it will be interesting to see how it likes more lol. Having a 4 pot again reopens my interest for the EFR, cant wait to see yours in action!

Also super keen to watch Beer Baron pioneer the SAU EFR stage!

Twin high mounts? what is JDM about that lol...

Think pre hype era, when a modified GTR was very much jap territory. Then think big twin kits... What was available back then? Some pretty ordinary garrett stuff and the ageless TD range.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...