Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I personally think that I would prefer an EFR8374 on my car. In saying that you couldn't really ask much more from the PTE 6262, 710rwhp is crazy and response is very good.

The main thing that turned me off the EFR was the physical size and lack of housing options in external gate, in fact if someone can show me one will fit between my strut tower and my motor, plus a T4 divided in a 0.8 rear and I'll give it a go

I have my 8374 fitting between the struts in my R32, and it has the T4 divided .92A/R IWG housing so it's even fussier to fit. Yeah it's tight, but no issues. You wouldn't want anything smaller than the .92a/r on an RB26 or RB30.....it's borderline too small on mine, I could still fit the A/C pump back in if I wanted......but I'm reserving the space for a dry sump pump one day :-) Edited by Sub Boy32

I have my 8374 fitting between the struts in my R32, and it has the T4 divided .92A/R IWG housing so it's even fussier to fit. Yeah it's tight, but no issues. You wouldn't want anything smaller than the .92a/r on an RB26 or RB30.....it's borderline too small on mine, I could still fit the A/C pump back in if I wanted......but I'm reserving the space for a dry sump pump one day :-)

You arent using a full race manifold then I guess? My full race manifold put the turbo quite a fair bit forward

You arent using a full race manifold then I guess? My full race manifold put the turbo quite a fair bit forward

No, I had Sinco Customs make me one, it's similar to their TO4Z manifold, but has been lowered to suit the extra height of the RB30 and the size of the EFR.

TurboFit1.jpg

TurboFit2.jpg

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

The newer 7163 should be superior, both will support more than 400whp on E85.

Want to keep it on 98 octane....

I like the idea of dual external wastegate T4 twin scroll.... which the 7163 doesn't have.

The 7064 seems (t4 ts 1.05/ar ext wastegate) seems as though itll have more top end potential whilst retaining savage response...

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

The 1.05 is prob a bit big. The .92 easily,easily will achieve that goal. I have a 2.15L SR20 with a 7064 .92 and Poncams (tiny) and mine made 258rwkw on about 16psi with very,very conservative timing. It goes a lot harder now but haven't dynoed it since. Still can't afford to take it in for another run. With 24-26psi and 260 degree Procams, it'd go off it's head (Prob 350 odd rwkw. My injectors/gearbox/clutch would not support that level of power).

Edited by bradsm87

Awesome to hear Brad....

What RPM are you achieving full boost and what is the transient/throttle response like? Is the acceleration fairly savage as is and what is the car like for spirited driving?

I hear the EFR's well and truly come to life when high boost is pushed into them.

Full boost at 3300 if loaded up in a high gear from low RPM. Transient throttle at anything above 3700 is insanely, insanely quick on to boost. Comes on gradually and very controllable if loading up from low rpm. If u hit the throttle at 4500-ish, u gotta be careful becomes on very fast and hard.

Been wondering if it's physically possible to fit a 7163 onto a RB25 stock manifold.

I make out that a GT3071 is about 150mm from face of flange to furthest point on compressor housing. The 6758 (which I understand is outline identical to 7163) is about 165~170mm in T25 form. Possibly even bigger in TS T4 format. Given you would need a spacer to fit the 7163 (to convert to T3), it's probably 20mm or so closer to shock tower...

Anyone know how much extra room there is in R33 GTST engine bay with GT3071 / GT3076? Would one of these EFR turbos fit?

Pics below of references. I made pretty agricultural measurements assuming the pics are to scale.

post-83859-0-29311700-1387582398_thumb.jpg

post-83859-0-99090700-1387582523_thumb.jpg

Also for s#!ts and giggles, I overlaid GT3071, GT3076 and EFR 7163 compressor maps.

Notes:

Efficiency island:

GT 76%

EFR 74%

Speed lines:

GT 120k

EFR 110k & 130k

The 7163 looks pretty damn impressive. Thoughts on how spool time would be compared with GT3071?

post-83859-0-92399000-1387583072_thumb.png

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...