Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha not off to a good start on the front iv smashed a 17mm socket and and extension on the big bottom bolt, they were 3/8 though im off to repco to get some 1/2 inch stuff. While im here do i need to undo the long bolt on the top arm to get them in and out? or just the one at the base of the shock and the two on the strut tower?

horrace put a socket on it and your breaker bar, position it so you can give it a kick and the sharp all of a sudden torque you will create from booting the breaker bar should get it cracked. Make sure the sockets on nice and square first.

well the 25 boxes and the 33 gtr boxes are pretty much the same

and my mates stock shifter fitted in my rs4s

it should fit

I thought the shifter was different due to having a transfer case hanging off the extension housing.. must be wrong though, haven't looked at one in a LONG while. I did have my RB25 shifter in the RB20 box before I upgraded so I definintely know that works.

Edited by bubba

I already drove your car chris!!

But you don't remember cos you were drunk by the time you finished your conversion....

I'll take it for another spin tho

you just want me to come over so you can try and seduce me again

Homo

Got them all in ok no adjustable arms in yet though, I left them at the heights they came and the front is about stock height and the rear is gangster low lol, I raised the rear a bit and I'll get the front where I want it tomorrow I cbf today.

you just want me to come over so you can try and seduce me again

nah dude, his mum's been asking for you :P

at least that hour long wait in the freezing rain sobered him up a bit before he dropped me home, thanks rod :P

Edited by M I K E

GOT MY m35 ON THE ROAD TODAY!!! finally drove it properly!

f**king totally inlove with it!

goes SOOOOOO much more harder than what i expected, and with the kenstyle/hks coilovers it handles f**kin great!!!!

next to lower the coilovers all the way, and put on 30mm spacers :laugh::D:D:D:D

oh when i was driving the engine light came on. and the car stopped driving and just went to idling!

turned the car off waited a minute all was good.

im pretty sure it had something to do with the accel pedal flipping down and me pushing it flat out lol...

Just got my newly painted V35 wheels on the car :laugh:

Colour is Toyota Pewter. Thanks again Chris (Spoolin'12) for the wheels, though, I paid SIGNIFICANTLY more for the paint than what I was telling you!

Better pics when the sun is shining.

post-61153-1282140331_thumb.jpg

post-61153-1282139919_thumb.jpg

now running RDA slotted rotors and Endless SSY pads up front

100_1496.jpg

Porn! Looks nice. I'm keen to get slotted rotors soon too. Gotta get a tune for 16psi first. :laugh:
What... Me?... Never... :huh:

Okay, time to put my 2.2 New Zealand cents in...

Not many individuals go from a highflow turbo back to a stock turbo and say they prefer it, so this is quite foreign to most and probably the cause of much angst.

Saying you didn't even make 7psi until high up in the rev-range is saying that the setup you had was not ideal, whether it be your tune, boost controller gain etc...

I could go on, but I'm sure it'll just be echoing what others have already said :)

Hi Tim

Just to say it again. Any turbo, no matter what size, or characteristics doesn't provide ANY boost until it is spooled up.

This hi-flow was so slow to spool that is wasn't making any boost under 3000 RPM. I am not saying that what others have done with their cars is wrong.

The big question I had was that if it was making full boost on an RB20 at 3200 (as claimed by the builder), then why would the drift guy have taken it off? I know now that it couldn't have been.

I (stupidly) thought that it would be OK on an RB25. It wasn't. Also I didn't want to shell out another $2000, to put another turbo on.

To be honest I probably wouldn't have even looked at a high-flow if it wasn't offered to me so cheaply ($900). It's still for sale if anyone wants it!

I really only wanted 200kw, and 194 is close enough.

I don't really see it as going backwards, I feel that an increase of 32kw (over the old engine) is great considering all I have done is really have the Nistune installed and tuned. The main reasons (obviously) are a motor with only 54,000kms (instead of 119,000) and a new (rebuilt) turbo and tune.

The dyno charts will show comparisons.

I think that once I post these are up people will find that pretty interesting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...