Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did you ask to see if she had working brake lights? If it was me I would've

thats what im annoyed about.. i didnt check and only thought of it after the fact - remembering that i didnt see any.. i spoke to her on the phone and she is going to get the repairer to call me next week when they do the quote.. i might ring them first and ask them to double check the brake lights work. i dont want to risk asking her in case they are broken and she realises and gets them fixed prior.

ok your bumper is easily repaired! not too bad

if it was me, id pay the cash too mate. sorry to hear the bad news. it could have been much worse!

thanks mate .. i agree couldve been much much worse.

apart from that incident the old girl is running really well. got 550kms out of her for the first time ever today . and more left over and i wasnt being shy on the pedal.

after recent alignment and suspension change over. - got a little bit too much damper atm though.. its like damper over kill.

but my business is booming again .. so no big loss. just a bit pissed off at myself after the acco. awell teach me to be more carefull.

glad the business is going well, it allows you to keep the car :)

dont stress about the car.

you got the BC coilovers right? what setting do you have the dampers on?

Mine are midway, 15 clicks I think.

Did you ask to see if she had working brake lights? If it was me I would've

Doesn't matter if her brake lights worked or not. If you hit from behind you are at fault. Six but that is the law.

Doesn't matter if her brake lights worked or not. If you hit from behind you are at fault. Six but that is the law.

actually that isnt totally true,

I hit a taxi up the rear and blamed him, they tried using that, but in my case he was changing lanes and between two lanes when impact happened, thus not in a lane and he did not change " when safe to do so".

took forever with insurance thoe,

but hitting somthing up the rear makes life very hard if you want to fight it.

actually that isnt totally true,

I hit a taxi up the rear and blamed him, they tried using that, but in my case he was changing lanes and between two lanes when impact happened, thus not in a lane and he did not change " when safe to do so".

took forever with insurance thoe,

but hitting somthing up the rear makes life very hard if you want to fight it.

You are taking my comment out of context.... I said if you hit some one from behind and and you are trying to divert blame to them because their brake lights don't work, then you are out of luck.

What you have described is some one not giving way to you in a lane change... very different. As you found out,, hard to prove.

scott has had bigger cups of concrete than you dale :P

Bloody tough crowd here.

With the roads in my area, I'd have snapped my car in half by now with those damper settings

You are taking my comment out of context.... I said if you hit some one from behind and and you are trying to divert blame to them because their brake lights don't work, then you are out of luck.

What you have described is some one not giving way to you in a lane change... very different. As you found out,, hard to prove.

yeah agreed no leg to stand on when rear ending someone. so its probably not going to make a difference.

she made an interesting comment though she goes "- when i was looking in my mirror i saw you were too close" almost an admission of guilt that she was watching me and slammed the brakes on purpose .. but who knows.

bc coil overs ? i wish! .. rsr springs and kyb adjustable dampers ..just got some new ones on the rear.. (and personally i shouldve gotten the coil overs but i had to rego it first ) the shocks are adjustable but they must be on full damper cause its soft as shit rides bumps on the freeway like a boat riding a wave - crazy rebound -

heh dale - they must all have those awesome melbourne /sydney streets.. try qld supposedly the fuel is discounted 10cents a litre for the thousands of dollars extra one has to pay in brakes , suspension and tyres on qld roads which in all honesty are probably one of the worst in the world. Western australia by far has the best roads in this country.. anyone from w.a whos driven on the east coast will agree.

Edited by PetroDola

Bloody tough crowd here.

With the roads in my area, I'd have snapped my car in half by now with those damper settings

lol. I haven't fiddled with the dampening since I took the v35 rear springs out. It's a lot stiffer in the back now so perhaps I should have a play around but they aren't too bad...

I can crank it around a corner at nearly full throttle, it stays level, no wheel spin and doesn't step out either, very stable. I don't think I really need the swaybars until I decide an LSD is required and get it on the track.

Gave mine a good clean today and tidied up some bits and pieces over past few days....

Also let the chick iv been with for the past 2 years finally drive it last night haha, shes used to driving a tiny barina and was scared but surprised me, few of my mates cant drive it with the heavy clutch but she was not to bad! Pity over the past 3 weeks we've become no longer an item as she would have been a good deso driver in the stag! see how the next few weeks pans out with us

Doesn't matter if her brake lights worked or not. If you hit from behind you are at fault. Six but that is the law.

most stupid law out. whats the point in having break lights then if people arent gonna check them.

lol. I haven't fiddled with the dampening since I took the v35 rear springs out. It's a lot stiffer in the back now so perhaps I should have a play around but they aren't too bad...

I can crank it around a corner at nearly full throttle, it stays level, no wheel spin and doesn't step out either, very stable. I don't think I really need the swaybars until I decide an LSD is required and get it on the track.

I prefer to run the dampers soft, to soak up the bumps (of which there are plenty):angry: rather than use them to limit body roll. And I'm lucky that I have an LSD in mine :nyaanyaa: (about the only extra it came with), It tends toward understeer on the limit; that's why I'm doing the swaybars, I should be able to tune it out, have it cornering flat and still have a fairly cushy ride.

Edited by Daleo

Got a rwc done on my stag today for transferring the rego from nsw to vic. Passed ok but apparently the rear shocks are dying and the front driver side is leaking. Gonna need new suspension soon. Also turbo is leaking oil...lucky it didn't drip on the ground!

Got a rwc done on my stag today for transferring the rego from nsw to vic. Passed ok but apparently the rear shocks are dying and the front driver side is leaking. Gonna need new suspension soon. Also turbo is leaking oil...lucky it didn't drip on the ground!

There is a good chance it is the rear of the passenger valve cover leaking, not the turbo. I guess you really want to remove it to check though, and highflow it while its out of course. :whistling:

Got a rwc done on my stag today for transferring the rego from nsw to vic. Passed ok but apparently the rear shocks are dying and the front driver side is leaking. Gonna need new suspension soon. Also turbo is leaking oil...lucky it didn't drip on the ground!

i reckon those shocks are the cause of that noise if its leaking. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...