Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the Nismo awesome club- Not really an ideal fitment, but better than stock. good if your std height. Cheap too!

http://www.nissanusa...30S-RNA4010.jsp

mmm.. they are nice and good value.. :)

they are big enough for me

next time it will be larger rolling diameter tyres

Never met a bloke who'd say no to an extra inch...:ph34r:

Edited by Daleo

nah i wont make it there, but i know one of the guys filming it!

tonight, gave jetwreck a hand doing a shift kit to a 350z. fck me did it shift fast!!! and every push of the + and - performed a gear change.

anyway, the owner was VERY happy with the outcome. as you would be.

removed my front prop shaft, car feels better in corners i rekon!

nah i wont make it there, but i know one of the guys filming it!

tonight, gave jetwreck a hand doing a shift kit to a 350z. fck me did it shift fast!!! and every push of the + and - performed a gear change.

anyway, the owner was VERY happy with the outcome. as you would be.

removed my front prop shaft, car feels better in corners i rekon!

yeh the series 2 valve bodies are already upgraded.

the gear box also rev matches and does all this extra funky shit.

My sisters one is auto and actually chirps second on change, and its amazing and holding revs going down gears.

yeh the series 2 valve bodies are already upgraded.

the gear box also rev matches and does all this extra funky shit.

My sisters one is auto and actually chirps second on change, and its amazing and holding revs going down gears.

So, we have a separate gearbox computer right?

Is there any way it would work to swap with the 350z one despite the 2wd/4wd difference?

I would love it if mine changed exactly when I wanted not when it decided it felt like doing it.....

So, we have a separate gearbox computer right?

Is there any way it would work to swap with the 350z one despite the 2wd/4wd difference?

I would love it if mine changed exactly when I wanted not when it decided it felt like doing it.....

the Trans ecu's in the two cars talk to the Cars main ecu. so i dont think going from auto 4wd to auto 2wd would work.

going to Manual 2wd on the other hand, should be no problem. as long as the car can be tuned(emanage f-con etc) you should be fine!

but you also have to keep in mind that the 350z is a lighter car, so some of the feel maybe in that.

its funny you mentioned that, i already thought of obtaining a V35 or Z33 TCU and seeing what would happen. Id say a V35 one would be more compatible (within the same years) and may have different programming.

i know the two TCUs i have are slightly different. i might put back my other one

it lightens the drivetrain taking out the front drive shaft. gear changes ARE snappier on mine now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...