Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine out.

Whats a Evo engine worth? That should be your track car TBH, but this:

I don't know mate, perhaps 3k?

I could buy the forged parts to rebuild it for similar coin I think...

I don't know much about the evotards, how much is said stroker kit Dale? What are my options? Looks like I have a bit of research to do...

Edit... http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-Evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-Stroker-Kit.html

Cheap... :)

I don't know much about the evotards, how much is said stroker kit Dale? What are my options? Looks like I have a bit of research to do...

Edit... http://www.amsperfor...troker-Kit.html

Cheap... :)

Lol; very cheap.

I think the Tomei 2.4 is around the same, a bit of a no brainer to bump the capacity if it's apart...

I might buy a wrecker motor to get it on the road, then rebuild this one myself. Can't be too hard can it? Only 4 cylinders. :)

No cam chains either; piece of piss to put together.

Invidia do a full stainless dump to tip exhaust for $1500. Cast stainless dump, and a 100cpi cat. Nice quality too.

Better have enough for two lol.

Also need to do the LICP(lower intercooler pipe)

I'm happy for you two to be "connecting" with cars again but Aaron, that has to be the lamest abbreviation... not to mention that you had to explain it thus negating the need for an abbreviation.

I'm happy for you two to be "connecting" with cars again but Aaron, that has to be the lamest abbreviation... not to mention that you had to explain it thus negating the need for an abbreviation.

It is what it is, mang!

Did you know what an LICP was prior to reading what the abbreviation was? I doubt it.

Yu gay boi

It is what it is, mang!

Did you know what an LICP was prior to reading what the abbreviation was? I doubt it.

Yu gay boi

Haha, I didn't know what that abbreviation was because I don't wear my hat backwards, wear gheyboi skinny pants and buy a bright orange S14 and then an Evo "because YOLO" like some.

Haha, I didn't know what that abbreviation was because I don't wear my hat backwards, wear gheyboi skinny pants and buy a bright orange S14 and then an Evo "because YOLO" like some.

You Mitsubishi owners are all the same...

:ph34r:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...