Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WTF have you done Keir :) .....an R33 :) ....if you can get past the look of it there not to bad on the track......not to bad at all!

BTW.....V35 manual radiator will fit with some very minor mods......it's wider and deeper than ours but it does fit....you will have to run a trans coolers or two though.

i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :)

i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :unsure:

just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

I don't know if the 350Z and V35 radiators are the same....me thinks no....but I could be wrong!

Is it true that the 350z or one of the v35/g35 rads is compatible, with some minor modding of the radiator support?

If so I'd be going down that route, 50mm thick 350z rad's are going for $200- $400 US on Ebay motors, depends on what brand you choose.

Bigger core, alloy construction, just the issue of A/T heat exchanger to deal with.

Either will fit, but the Z33 cap will not permit you to use the stock air funnel (it is on the passenger side)

Make sure you get a G35 one and take note of the side the cap is on.... oh, and with a larger radiator be prepared to cut a bit of the "glass composite" frame

lol i was waiting for that.

you evidently havent seen me drive.

i wasnt going to buy an s14 because it looked cool..and then blow its sr20 up the first week :blink:

im hoping the rb25 lasts at least 2 weeks. lol

i wouldve got kudos if i pasted this in the skyline thread. lol

Nothing gay about driving with the arse out, eh Kier? :P

just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

lol thanks for the info guys!

ill be getting a V35 radiator and having a shop install the factory transmission loop, or get them to install one so i can still drive the car short distances...........

:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

what?......lot better that the factory setup....not really possible to weld up some new bottom mounts onto the plastic.....there is slots that the Zipties slot through so it all looks pretty much factory......it's all held in by the pipes and top clip's as well....would not have done it if it looked like shit or didn't work!

btw.......YEH!.....nice radiator Scott! :blink:

Edited by Jetwreck
Seemingly... I still would like to know how much you cut out to get that beast of a radiator in there

Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

an S14 would be better, S15 better still!!

R33 is the poor man's nissan :unsure:

yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :devil:

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :blink:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:P

Edited by PetroDola
Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

lol... I have a set at home waiting to go on. Somewhat thicker and stiffer wall that the one's you bought though :unsure:

Edited by iamhe77
yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :P

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :unsure:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:blink:

R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

its a 4 cylinder.. yeah lets make it do an 9 second quarter mile once or twice before it required a rebuild.. who wants that crap.

r33 however has the strongest box nissan ever made :blink:

besides.. for $5600 not exactly s15 budget no :P

(just the mods are worth what im paying for the car)

if i had the money for a s15.. id just buy a gtr :devil:

Edited by PetroDola
pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

wanna bet?? i owned two. they got hammered every day, every time i drove them :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...