Turbo Bag On A Race Car

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Has anyone used a Turbo Bag for a dedicated circuit racer ? I want to reduce the engine bay temps, so that between races I can more easily work on the car if I need to, as touching a hot turbo housing isn't much fun. Just want to know whether the standard turbo bag offerings would cope with the heap generated from a real hard track workout ?

[Marlin]

I don't see why the better quality ones wouldn't cope?

We use them on "non water jacket housing" turbo diesel marine turbos often, and they spend hours at a time under high load with the turbos glowing.

Edited November 9, 2010 by Marlin

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I don't see why the better quality ones wouldn't cope?

We use them on "non water jacket housing" turbo diesel marine turbos often, and they spend hours at a time under high load with the turbos glowing.

I was just going to grab one from HorsePower-in-a-box, for $200 I guess no harm in giving it a go.

[Neil]

I was just going to grab one from HorsePower-in-a-box, for $200 I guess no harm in giving it a go.

I'd be very interested in how it goes mate,,,. It would ruin my party trick though,,,lighting my cig off the turbo.

Cheers

Neil.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I'd be very interested in how it goes mate,,,. It would ruin my party trick though,,,lighting my cig off the turbo.

Cheers

Neil.

I'll let you know how it goes, I'll be happy aslong as the bag doesn't catch alight

[Neil]

I'll let you know how it goes, I'll be happy aslong as the bag doesn't catch alight

Yes Please do.

Cheers

Neil.

[StealthX]

Considered ceramic coating?

Although it's not a circuit racing application, my turbo bag works pretty well, but the heat still radiates out from the dump and CHRA.

What other heat management do you have? i.e. heat wrap on the dump etc?

Also define "work on the car"? Cos I doubt you'd be able to do anything on the exhaust side for a good 30 mins after, or do you mean the entire engine bay is too hot?

[woolls]

I had one on my circuit car, But It only lasted one race meet. It did make a difference in temps but was only for a short time.

Edited November 9, 2010 by woolls

[Strik3r]

I run one of those Turbo by Garrett turbo beanies. They tend to deteriorate a bit over time.. I've had my current one in there for 9 months and its still in pretty good nick, but the one before it was well and truly shagged after ~2.5 years of use. Maybe this one is slightly better quality. Definitely helps keeping the heat in the exhaust housing and away from the engine.

[R31Nismoid]

^ They do seem to be a perish/serviceable type of thing don't they.

Kinda like plugs and so on. I know a couple people who's beanies didnt last all that long (couple years tops)

But then they are cheap for their benefit.

Do you have a heat shield Paul? I could tell a massive difference when I had my lowmount/RB25 setup with or without the shield on.

Take it off and everything was virtually untouchable on the turbo side, heat shield back on and while the shield was hot, it served its purpose and cam covers etc were fine to touch

[Roy]

There are better solutions...lol you just need to be willing to spend a few hours and a shit load of cuts on your hands

HPC Coating (the brand) is far more durable then anything I have seen from Competition Coatings. I have not treid Jet Hot, but HPC are worth the extra money. Though I still think its more an anti-corrosion thing and durability thing then out right thermal control.

On the new setup I am going to do a wany McLaren trick and throw some gold thernal film in the engine bay, along with more of the ACL heat guards. I am going to replace the Greddy turbo shield with one made from the ACL stuff. Who knows how it will work out, but air is a pretty good insulator so

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I had one on my circuit car, But It only lasted one race meet. It did make a difference in temps but was only for a short time.

Which brand did you buy, and what reason did it last one race meet ?

[GTS-t VSPEC]

^ They do seem to be a perish/serviceable type of thing don't they.

Kinda like plugs and so on. I know a couple people who's beanies didnt last all that long (couple years tops)

But then they are cheap for their benefit.

Do you have a heat shield Paul? I could tell a massive difference when I had my lowmount/RB25 setup with or without the shield on.

Take it off and everything was virtually untouchable on the turbo side, heat shield back on and while the shield was hot, it served its purpose and cam covers etc were fine to touch

I had a heat shield on my previous T04Z, but not on this turbo, hence the thought to go to the beanie instead. If it only last one season I'm not too fussed, as it will be the least of my racing expenses.

[Strik3r]

unless you have a hole in your turbine housing and are effectivly blowtorching the turbo beanie, there is no way you should kill it with 1 track day. I find that the seems/corners of the exterior fabirc tend to crack/split. but even as they get a bit ratty, they still perform their function well.

[No Crust Racing]

Just to throw this into the mix.

Though I don't know this first hand, I've heard plenty of mention about warping housings when using a bag. This would be something to consider on a race car that sustains high temps.

Or is this just an old wives tale?

[GTS-t VSPEC]

unless you have a hole in your turbine housing and are effectivly blowtorching the turbo beanie, there is no way you should kill it with 1 track day. I find that the seems/corners of the exterior fabirc tend to crack/split. but even as they get a bit ratty, they still perform their function well.

Yeah, I'd have thought it would last at least a season before need to be replaced too.

[sh@un]

can't remember the brand, but some crew now makes a turbo bag woven from filaments of crushed and extruded volcanic rock. should cop a fair beating, that

[No Crust Racing]

No comments on the warping issue?

[Marlin]

You won't "warp" a turbo housing using a bag.

I personally steer clear of using any form of manifold or exhaust "wrap". in my experience the metal within disintegrates.

[Roy]

My theory is it 'disintegrates' due to thermal expansion, in particular differential expansion. When one surface has 800deg C air blowing through it and the other is subjest to air blowing past it at 60deg C you can understand the thermal stresses in the metal. If you coat it and wrap it you have more uniform temperature in the material, and more controlled cooling when the thing is turned off...rather then effectively being air quenched every time the thing cools down from being red hot.

It does mean your ultimate operational temperature is higher...but I think the rate at which you heat everything up also matters a lot. I usually have a warm up lap or two not just for oil and coolant and brake temps etc, but to let the manifold, dump etc all come up to a nice hot operating temp....i suppose that only matters if you are running aftermarket crap on your car like me ....