Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has an AVO HD actuator, i would of thought it would be sufficient..

Trent is a magician and if there is a problem i reckon he will find it but , is it wrong to say that there is every possibilty that this is just the nature of the turbo as AVO have said..

you can see in the second photo the actuator is rated for 12psi.

with my GT3076R 'highflow' (45v4 Nissan ported comp.housing, garret chra, avo .73ar 6-bolt skyline exh.housing) I originally had a 12-14psi adjustabel HKS actuator.

Wasnt happy with how it came onto boost and spooled up to 1.1bar, sold the hks actuator and installed a 18psi garrett actuator, seemed to make a slightly better difference in how the turbo performs overall. The 18psi garrett actuators sell on ebay for $120 delivered. Buy/sell and feel the difference.

you can see in the second photo the actuator is rated for 12psi.

with my GT3076R 'highflow' (45v4 Nissan ported comp.housing, garret chra, avo .73ar 6-bolt skyline exh.housing) I originally had a 12-14psi adjustabel HKS actuator.

Wasnt happy with how it came onto boost and spooled up to 1.1bar, sold the hks actuator and installed a 18psi garrett actuator, seemed to make a slightly better difference in how the turbo performs overall. The 18psi garrett actuators sell on ebay for $120 delivered. Buy/sell and feel the difference.

Definately a thought. They are gonna sting me for labour though.

Definately a thought. They are gonna sting me for labour though.

Its one of the things you should be doing yourself, it is a 10minute job to uninstall the current actuator and bolt up a larger 'heavy duty' garrett actuator.

If I can do it in a quarter of an hour, being 200cm tall with no knees and fast-fading hips, with hands on the large-side, you can shit it in easy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-Wastegate-Actuator-18-PSI-Universal-High-pressu-/370355916399?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563aeece6f

Its one of the things you should be doing yourself, it is a 10minute job to uninstall the current actuator and bolt up a larger 'heavy duty' garrett actuator.

If I can do it in a quarter of an hour, being 200cm tall with no knees and fast-fading hips, with hands on the large-side, you can shit it in easy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-Wastegate-Actuator-18-PSI-Universal-High-pressu-/370355916399?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563aeece6f

Wont it mess with my boost. Currently I'm assuming the actuator bails at 12psi then my gizzmo holds the rest. Wont either my gizzmo be useless, or I boost higher than my tune if I swap actuators?

I use a Greddy Profec-b spec-ii in conjunction with the 18psi Garrett actuator.

The EBC will allow you to modify the 'Gain' settings etc to bring on the boost as best as possible.

shouldnt make much difference will just make life easier for your gizmo id imagine...

Fuel pump dude? you have changed it havent you

Yup wallbro 550 nvm about.my above question. If I get an 18psi HD actuator. I Gota make sure I'm not tuned to 17 or sumthing. Wichita I think I am. Changing the actuator will mess.with that.

I use a Greddy Profec-b spec-ii in conjunction with the 18psi Garrett actuator.

The EBC will allow you to modify the 'Gain' settings etc to bring on the boost as best as possible.

But your running at least 18psi right? If someones running less and they put an 18psi.actuator ones the gizzmo release the actuator will still cause boost to gain.

No, I dont believe it would be an issue in regards to the tune. Setup the EBC you have for 17psi with the max setting of 18psi.

ie I have the 18psi actuator, my EBC is set to 1.1bar and 1.2bar low/high settings, which is equal to 16psi low 17.5psi high.... I dont have an issue

(however in saying that at my last track day I broke ringlands on piston#5; oil "somehow" got onto the AFM, half a lap of WideOpenThrottle later and rings let go)

You can purchase different psi-rated actuators, I believe 12-14psi, 14-16psi, 18psi, 20psi, etc

here is a 16.7psi actuator - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Actuator-16-7psi-/300550937648?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fa3b5c30

No, I dont believe it would be an issue in regards to the tune. Setup the EBC you have for 17psi with the max setting of 18psi.

ie I have the 18psi actuator, my EBC is set to 1.1bar and 1.2bar low/high settings, which is equal to 16psi low 17.5psi high.... I dont have an issue

(however in saying that at my last track day I broke ringlands on piston#5; oil "somehow" got onto the AFM, half a lap of WideOpenThrottle later and rings let go)

You can purchase different psi-rated actuators, I believe 12-14psi, 14-16psi, 18psi, 20psi, etc

here is a 16.7psi actuator - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Actuator-16-7psi-/300550937648?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fa3b5c30

Yeh I thinks it's safer to go slightly under my tune. 16.7 paid seems good.

The car is going to avo Monday for the day to adjust cam gears and see of the actuator.is causing issues. Then into Trent on Tuesday lol

No, I dont believe it would be an issue in regards to the tune. Setup the EBC you have for 17psi with the max setting of 18psi.

ie I have the 18psi actuator, my EBC is set to 1.1bar and 1.2bar low/high settings, which is equal to 16psi low 17.5psi high.... I dont have an issue

(however in saying that at my last track day I broke ringlands on piston#5; oil "somehow" got onto the AFM, half a lap of WideOpenThrottle later and rings let go)

You can purchase different psi-rated actuators, I believe 12-14psi, 14-16psi, 18psi, 20psi, etc

here is a 16.7psi actuator - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Actuator-16-7psi-/300550937648?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fa3b5c30

Also that's just a generic actuator. I'm specificalygoing Garrett HD.

Just hold ya horses. Wait till Tues night.

Then worry about "where to" with regards to changing parts, more labour etc. Patience for now, there is no obvious reason to spend any more money on parts at this point.

Just hold ya horses. Wait till Tues night.

Then worry about "where to" with regards to changing parts, more labour etc. Patience for now, there is no obvious reason to spend any more money on parts at this point.

Ill rephrase. "I would go a proper garret actuator instead of something generic" if needed. :)

I would always have the tune checked after doing an actuator change/boost controller reconfiguration. The actuator may allow the turbo to make more/less boost in certain areas of the map therefore messing with the tune.

I would always have the tune checked after doing an actuator change/boost controller reconfiguration. The actuator may allow the turbo to make more/less boost in certain areas of the map therefore messing with the tune.

Yeh definately. That's a given. Left it there tonight. Appears to be in good hands. Seems pretty cluey!

Yeh definately. That's a given. Left it there tonight. Appears to be in good hands. Seems pretty cluey!

Here's hoping it comes back a monster!

Perhaps a definitive answer on AVO's business ethics while were at it. We can see if they really were just too lazy to do better for the customer.

Here's hoping it comes back a monster!

Perhaps a definitive answer on AVO's business ethics while were at it. We can see if they really were just too lazy to do better for the customer.

Avo have been very good to me. I just want fresh eyes on the chart. Trent did comment that the boost curve looked kind lazy lol. Anyway. We'll see.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...