Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Geez where to start.

Been in the process of modding my car and have just got it back all good to go. Just a little bit upset that the car only made 290rwhp on 16psi. Here is the list of mods on the car currently.

Car is a 87 VL Calais with rb25det

Arias Pistons 20 thou over and rods

ACL Main Bearings, head and main studs.

Cometic Head Gasket

Standard Head for now

Greddy Copy Manifold and 80mm throttle body

Sard 550cc injectors

Bosch 044, surge tank and new lift pump

FMIC

Z32 AFM

R34 OP6 Hypergear Standard Hi-flow Turbo

Power FC and AVCR

that is all the engine mods, i have also upgraded the brakes, axles and added an lsd.

Car made 260 on 14psi (low boost) and 290 on 16 psi (high boost). only think i can think to do is set high boost to 18psi and see what figures i pull. do you guys think that figures seems a bit low considering the mods i have.

sorry guys, car is manual, 3inch mandrel bent exhaust from turbo back and just stock vl diff gears. i was thinknig the diff gears might have a bit to do with it as it sits at no more then 2000 rpm when in 5th going 100k.

Diff gears have no effect on power output.

so 290 is about 215rwkw and realistically 240ish should be achievable so what comp pistons, HG thickness and was the pfc tuned via knock monitoring or just the handset??

Well if pistons and head gaskets have dropped the engine compression then you will need more boost to make the same amount of power.

Make sure you have a 3inch metal intake pipe and a free flow exhaust. Try a run with dropped exhaust, high power gain means restrictive exhaust.

Also highly recommend a high pressure actuator if you are running a stock actuator. This turbo is capable of doing around 260rwkws.

hey guys i now have dyno print out up. i drove the car before it was tuned and the turbo kicked in alot harder then.

You will need a high pressure actuator to hold boost up top. Should have no issues getting 260rwkws. are you running stock intake pipe?

the guy that tuned my car took the actuator you supplied off and put a stock one on. he said it was jammed or something cause he didnt know when it was gonna open. im not sure what you mean by stock intake pipe, i have the normal exhaust manifold. here is a pic of my engine bay b4 injectors were fitted.

post-74158-1291211942_thumb.jpg

Edited by chrislesnar

The the whole reason of having an high pressure actuator is to hold boost. Put it back the way it was, and go for another tune. I really don't like people tempering with the actuator as most people lefts them un-adjusted. it opens around 18~20psi without boost controller. It is not Jammed.

Intake pipe is the pipe that connects the turbo to the pod filter, it needs to be an hard pipe at least 3inch in length. If the turbo can not suck in or dispatch air then it will result in lag and lose in power.

I can see a metal intake in there, so that issue is resolved.

Stao, the graph shows he is running roughly 1 bar at a minimum. Do you expect this result from the turbo in question at that boost level?

I think the result is more consistent with a stock op6 @ 14psi than it is a highflow with that sort of power. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Yes, we had a chat today. I did advise before hand that i only wanted 16psi but i thought it would have pulled a bigger figure on that. I mentioned adding a high pressure actuator but he said that the 18psi actuator on it initially was to large and a 12-14psi actuator would be better suited for my build. Atm i happy with how the car is running but just think it could have pulled a larger figure. Will this high pressure actuator increase the hp by that much?

Edited by chrislesnar

You have a built motor, it can take 20psi all day everyday without issue if it was built and tuned properly

even a stock motor will hold together with 18psi with that turbo, was there another reason they said that?

running it at 18-20psi will make a large difference to power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...