Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Stagea Batterys! Which One To Get?

bLaQ.bOi

By bLaQ.bOi,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

the one with the most CCA, that will fit in the hole?

I don't know. Of all the batteries I've had, they all seemed to give out at different times, not in line with any quality / price. Obviously things like Gel and other fancy batteries might last longer. Kmart, get the terminals the right way round and the most CCA, and bobs your whatever.

Just get it done cause it will die at the worst time possible :rolleyes:

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

hey guys just wondering if anyone has an idea on the best battery to get for an M355 stagea. mine keeps going flat! i think its out of juice!

ATM I am using two Gel Baqtteries because it suits my FMIC piping. But yes CCA is the criteria. 500 + is what you need

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

You will need to change the terminals over if you get common style of battery. The M35 has small terminals which make it hard to source for. I think I got a 550 or 600cca in there.

bLaQ.bOi Mentor

bLaQ.bOi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys, needed to get the car running because my airbag light keeps flashing, my mate reckons that it has something to do with battery being drained?

so i just went so supercheap auto. grabbed a century one that looked like it would fit. all good so far. a

stupid airbag light

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

You will need to change the terminals over if you get common style of battery. The M35 has small terminals which make it hard to source for. I think I got a 550 or 600cca in there.

Nah, Independant Battery Distributors in Frankston stock a number of maintenance free batteries that bit perfectly... with 2 year guarantee :)

  • 7 months later...
bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does anyone who has replaced their battery have the size code? There's usually a letter and a couple of numbers on top of the battery but since mine is a Jap battery there's just random Japanese letters.

Just make it easier to order a replacement without hunting quite so much or changing terminals like Scott suggests.

Is 350Z the same?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Don't you just take it into Batteries-R-US & they pull out the correct size? That's what I did, but I'll get a code off mine in the morning if no one's replied before then.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I don't. Dad has a trade account with Independent Batteries, so I usually get him to order them for me.

If you've got a code that'd be great. Did you use the same terminals?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

OK, not sure if this code will help but mine is a Supercharge battery, part # MF55B24L (CCA 430). I used the same leads but I remember now the earth lead was a fraction too big to clamp tightly with these stupid type that Nissan (all manufacturers?) use these days. I probably should have changed it but I wrapped a few turns of copper wire around the battery terminal instead lol.

chad bob Enthusiast

chad bob

Posted
Posted

I used a 530CCA European style battery, I had to modify the terminals so that the stock terminal clamps would fit (a piss easy job). It barely fitted in the hole, but looks stock now that it's in there

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Just had a look at mine.

Platinum Power 2000 from Independent Battery Distributors.

Part #NS40LMF

380 CCA

RC60

Not a big battery, but have not had any issues for the past year or so... and it plugged straight in to the standard connectors.

  • 6 years later...
wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted

Right here is some digging:

Over in NZ they have a listing for an NS40L which is a 330CCA (if you get a beefy one it's about 380CCA).  I think this is the standard size.

Dimensions for this are: L = 187, W = 127, H = 220.  Terminals are 10mm (diameter??) and on the correct side.

The recommendation to upgrade in CCA size is the following:

NS60L (Exide part number X60CPMF, or 60CPMF, Century NS60LSX MF, or NS60LS MF)

This is a 450 or 480CCA battery with dimensions being: L = 237, W = 128, H = 222.  Terminals are the same as above

Interestingly, this is the same battery as a Nissan Tiida 2000-2006.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Yeetus
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • GTSBoy
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...