Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries, its just that it significantly outflows the factory manifold... So running it within the limits of the factory manifold will get you sub standard results.

You would be better off with a turbo that suits the factory manifold and reap the benefits of added spool and response. Going interal gate also saves you a packet and isnt as cop bait.

There was some talk that the TD06SL2-20G 10cm T3 would be awesome for sub 300rwkw application but even then you need to plumb a gate and it starts to become questionable just how much better it might be than a hypergear bolt on item..

This'll be for a track only drift car. Therefore an external gate and screamer pipe is a given lol.

The TD06SL2-20G 10cm T3 sounds like the turbo best suited to what I want

  • 2 weeks later...

Just spent a bit of time reading through this.

And the last couple pages indicated that they're not a bolt on application, is that for all of them or just the T67 equivalent?

Reason I'm asking is I currently have the turbo off my S14 (hypergear hi flow) as I'm going external gate, and over the last couple days I've been playing with the idea of fitting a new turbo while its off.

So 2 questions, the above about any of them being bolt on (I realise I'll need a new intake and dump pipe no matter what, that doesn't bother me).

And what turbo would suit my application? Aiming for a little over 200rwkw, but with a bit of headroom should I feel the need to bump it up a bit, and I want it to stay reasonably responsive.

SR20 using standard cams, unopened, standard bolt on stuff like an incredibly noisy exhaust and an ARC box. Gate will be a Tial 38mm external w/ 1 bar spring. Thinking something like the TD06SL2, do they come in 8cm, or are they all only 10cm? V-band rear non gated is preferred.

Car is mostly street with track and motorkhana days thrown in regularly.

i have just finished a build with one of these T67-25G turbos + supporting mods. its going in for a tune in the next week or so, will post results. Previous setup was a GT3076 internal gated on 17psi made 225rwkw also, my car is a manualised auto, so the power figures will be down a bit compared to a manual.

My T67-25g is still going strong after a night out at the track!

Was only running 7000rpm and 1.4bar of boost for longevity of the motor but it still makes about 355kw at the hubs or 330rwkw on a roller...

Here is a little video, I'm obviously the 2nd car that comes on the main straight. If you listen to the engine note as soon as I hit the throttle 100% it is on gate :) Also worth noting that is has so much power everywhere I could probably use a higher gear on most corners and still be very fast.

For anyone interested I did a 58.0 at Barbargello short track and won the class for RWD street for the night :)

Edited by SimonR32

Im still waiting on them to release a TD06-25G with either the 3 bolt or T3 flane, currently its only t25 flange :(

Zeb if its a 25g wheel you want he has plenty of T3 ex gate options available?

From what I know the T67 is going to be the best one to go with for power/response.

If you are refering to 20g items he has these also but not as popular. Maybe just ask and he can send you or make you one.

I have to say though, its hard to find info on which TD06 wheel is best suited to what application. It shits me to tears.

For the SR dude, try these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD05H-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294103?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63a17

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294338?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63b02

The TD05 will spool faster and the TD06 will hold more power. The TD05 version should be good for 240rwkw? while the TD06 for maybe 260+ but a fair whack more lag.

If your aiming for 200rwkw with a little more headroom and bolt on application, why didnt you just have your stock turbo built to 2871 52t specs and have yourself a no name HKS GTRS? thats all it is at the end of the day.

GL

Zeb if its a 25g wheel you want he has plenty of T3 ex gate options available?

From what I know the T67 is going to be the best one to go with for power/response.

If you are refering to 20g items he has these also but not as popular. Maybe just ask and he can send you or make you one.

I have to say though, its hard to find info on which TD06 wheel is best suited to what application. It shits me to tears.

For the SR dude, try these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD05H-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294103?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63a17

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-w-T518Z-T25-Housing-/270733294338?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08f63b02

The TD05 will spool faster and the TD06 will hold more power. The TD05 version should be good for 240rwkw? while the TD06 for maybe 260+ but a fair whack more lag.

If your aiming for 200rwkw with a little more headroom and bolt on application, why didnt you just have your stock turbo built to 2871 52t specs and have yourself a no name HKS GTRS? thats all it is at the end of the day.

GL

Tbh I wouldnt bother going to the effort of changing turbos for less than 370rwks....the stock twins will do 260 give or take and mid 11's on the 1/4. The best result from high flowed Ct12a's is 280rwkws (and a F load of lag) and the Best from the old HKS T3G kit is 300rwkws (also very laggy)

So if Im gonna have a fairly laggy setup I want a mega top end to keep me happy and if Simons Stock RB25 can hold together at that power than my 1JZ sure as hell will.

Lol I felt the same way till I took my stock twins off 2 weeks ago..... Power to weight I want as absolute much zing as I can for under 250rwkw, the stock twins are linear in feel and dont provide the rip their peak output might imply (not saying they are shit just saying I want something else).

Going TD06 or GT30 turbines are just going to flow plenty and see good numbers. Using a smaller comp wheel will see boost on early (20g or GT35) yet is still going to have that dull 500hp feel.

At the moment im leaning towards a T2 framed turbo and am going to pretend I have an SR with 25% more flow capacity. I should have a disco potato in my hands soon which im planning to use as the base (if not final) for my setup. I questioned the thought of going T2 base yet then remembered the fact that flow=flow regardless of how many cylinders are flowing it. GTR's use -10s for something like 500kw and most of the big HKS twin kits for the GTR are also T2 based (twin 2835etc) so I dont see a problem.

I was seconds from purchasing an SL2 20G when the all out response bug bit again lol

Well exhaust side the disco is identical to a GTRS, same size same trim same ex housing, so really it shouldnt.

The plan is see how it is combined with my Mines tuned rom and if not happy get the front wheel changed to the 52t GT35 item and do the ecu and USDM supra injectors.

Well see how it pans out, Im anticipating the disco itself will be good on high boost (230ish rwkw).

had a drive of my 33 today to see how it was for lag as ive gone bigger in intercooler and pipe size + .82 rear vs my old gt30 was a .63. All i can give is good results, turbo comes on nice, maybe a little to hard for my liking, but nothing some wider rear tread wont fix, felt great, and with all the mods and bigger rear, it seems to come on about 500rpm later, around the 3000rpm mark to a full 17psi. all i can say is, thanks to GTScotty for putting me onto simons thread, and thanks simon for taking the time out to post your build and results - very happy customer.

im hoping for 330rwkw after the tune is done, but that might be a little over my head as atm i only have a 17psi spring in my wastegate, may need to go up a bit in boost.

Nice - so did you go a Kinugawa T67?

i have just finished a build with one of these T67-25G turbos + supporting mods. its going in for a tune in the next week or so, will post results. Previous setup was a GT3076 internal gated on 17psi made 225rwkw also, my car is a manualised auto, so the power figures will be down a bit compared to a manual.

had a drive of my 33 today to see how it was for lag as ive gone bigger in intercooler and pipe size + .82 rear vs my old gt30 was a .63. All i can give is good results, turbo comes on nice, maybe a little to hard for my liking, but nothing some wider rear tread wont fix, felt great, and with all the mods and bigger rear, it seems to come on about 500rpm later, around the 3000rpm mark to a full 17psi. all i can say is, thanks to GTScotty for putting me onto simons thread, and thanks simon for taking the time out to post your build and results - very happy customer.

im hoping for 330rwkw after the tune is done, but that might be a little over my head as atm i only have a 17psi spring in my wastegate, may need to go up a bit in boost.

The .82 would be a 12cm^2 housing yeah?

I think Kando say to 10cm is .7 something....not sure exactly how they work that out though lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...