Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im actually worried the gate might flow to well...if thats possible..cant wait to see how it goes though

mines for a rb25 so im going to go the 10cm housing and external gate as the 8cm will choke

and artz ive also noticed your using a 10mm spacer between the turbo and manifold did you need this or did you do it just to be sure as i thought i read on here you didnt need it

yeah you need it..with the spacer there is about 2mm clearance on the comp cover..

I was hoping the new stainless housings would work on these Kando's, what sise is the turbine, is it larger than a GT30?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-Steel-Turbine-Housing-HKS-GT3037-Garrett-GT3076R-82-AR-Square-T3-/130599600651?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6857c20b

61mm turbine wheel in the T67-25g.

so an ever so slight machine and it might work

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

nah man with a custom bracket the screamer pipe will go under the heat shield as well..

so all you will see is the gate hat...which is unavoidable really..

guess i just have to hope whoever looks under the bonnet doesn't no what tial means..:laugh:

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

Can you steer me to the proof that this is the case? My experience (which is limited to only two cars) is that the L2 is no better then the normal TD06 turbine. Curious to see some cases/examples where they have spooled better

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

Some of that ACL heat shield stuff might do the job...

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

Can you steer me to the proof that this is the case? My experience (which is limited to only two cars) is that the L2 is no better then the normal TD06 turbine. Curious to see some cases/examples where they have spooled better

Hes comparing it to a TD06SH (67mm Inducer)

Pretty sure the old S vs SL2 debate doesnt include the SH now does it? lol hey hey hey cmon cmon cmon (jk)

nah man with a custom bracket the screamer pipe will go under the heat shield as well..

so all you will see is the gate hat...which is unavoidable really..

guess i just have to hope whoever looks under the bonnet doesn't no what tial means..:laugh:

Just get some black high heat tolerance paint and paint over the top of it

^^yeah i probably will , thats all my engine bay needs more paint...:laugh:

LMAO @ TIAL stealthiness, man you crack me up. I wish we lived nearby -_-

and you can get a TFI brass fitting to put a 5/8 bung on the block from autobahn, its a 3/4 from stock i think!

ok i think it just hit me.. was this post about the brass fitting directed at the oil return??

Ye, has a 1/8" NPT fitting for an oil pressure gauge if you want to fir one there

thought so..but i still dont see where it can fit into the line..

One fitting is the same as the oil feed fitting so I suppose it is meant to go between the oil feed and the block..if it is i will need an adapter to go between the t piece and the fitting in the block..

if I do ,is that a good place to put it..?

ah ok why dont you just not use the T piece and get a sandwich plate for between oil filter and block and put a guage in there that way if you had any issues with the guage it would be a hell of alot easier to get to

ok i think it just hit me.. was this post about the brass fitting directed at the oil return??

I was saying that at autobahn you can buy some brass pieces to replace the return bung into the sump.

The factory RB return bung is massive, but most GT series and MHI turbos run a 5/8 hose diameter (16mm), so if you rock into autobahn they will carry a range of TFI branded brass fittings in various sizes. The chances are they will have one that is the same thread size as the stock RB bung but has a 5/8 hose fitting on it, otherwise they will have a 5/8 bung of whatever thread type and most likely have a screw in piece that reduces the size of the thread.

All in all you buy the new brass piece, bolt it in and get a 5/8 oil resistant hose and your laughing. let me know if u have trouble tracking down those brass bits as I know where I can get em

from kando :

Hi,

AR55 will go faster with higher temp. compressored air.

AR 60 goes around 300 rpm slower, but will get more top end.

We do offer 8cm T3 External gated turbine housing for TD06SL2 turbocharger.

When you confirm it, I will list them on our shop.

Sooo , i've suggested the ar55 cover since it's for a lil 20 :D right choice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...