Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car isnt even in the same state as me at present. All is ready to go, just need to get my car back as its currently getting some fabrication work done. I hope its going to be a bit of a weapon at Sandown in late April. Will be on E85 with the whatever proves the best performer. If its the billet then hopefully makes power at 26-28psi. On EVOs they seem to love the higher pressure ratios so the lil 20 will be earning her keep. Would be nice to make 320rwkws with the 73HTA or 250-260rwkws with the 18G

Well, I suppose I have Datalogit so will just buy 200L drums of E85 and run straight E85 at the circuit and throw 98 tune back in for getting around town. Pain in the ass, but everyone else is doing it so the lap times don't stack up without it :( The cars running it just have so much extra grunt for free, its not a level playing field running a full weight RB20 on 98 :(

Nobody has said anything here but United have 100 back. My car makes an easy 10-15rwkws more with it so tempted to run a 50:50 with 100 United / E85 to try and get some mileage out of the 200L of E85.

Kind of relevant to this thread...

This guy is using 2 x td06SL2 20Gs on his engine..

IMG_1474.jpg

if you are interested....

it is a 1GZ-FE - 5L V12

Auto box

In to Gen 3 Subaru Liberty converted to RWD.

Build thread here..

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67274376-Cracka-s-white-boy-shitbox-Gen-3-Liberty.-TT-V6-wouldn-t-fit-so-now-V12.

First start up vids on page 19 (not all hooked up yet but still...)

enjoy.

Well, I suppose I have Datalogit so will just buy 200L drums of E85 and run straight E85 at the circuit and throw 98 tune back in for getting around town. Pain in the ass, but everyone else is doing it so the lap times don't stack up without it :( The cars running it just have so much extra grunt for free, its not a level playing field running a full weight RB20 on 98 :(

Nobody has said anything here but United have 100 back. My car makes an easy 10-15rwkws more with it so tempted to run a 50:50 with 100 United / E85 to try and get some mileage out of the 200L of E85.

Mick_O is getting remarkably good mileage out of E85.

I drive 320kms to / from site every week + daily drive of about 30kms. I dont want to be paying for E85 and trying to source it. Hell, I may go a 91 tune :)

And replace your blocked injectors every 10,000ks lol

Honestly most family of mine who do not listen to me about the perils of 91 end up coming to me asking why their car runs like a lawn mower. Its ALWAYS a blocked injector, no matter how new the car is.

Just sayin' :whistling:

And replace your blocked injectors every 10,000ks lol

Honestly most family of mine who do not listen to me about the perils of 91 end up coming to me asking why their car runs like a lawn mower. Its ALWAYS a blocked injector, no matter how new the car is.

Just sayin' :whistling:

Have been running the EL wagon on 91 for about 8 years now. Never had a problem with blocked injectors.

My economy on E85 is pretty close to what it used to be on 98 as i only go for a blast here and there in my car as its not a daily driver.. Last tank of juice i got 410km with the fuel light on at 400km. Was spewing last week though E85 was $1.33 a litre most ive ever paid!

Mick_O is getting remarkably good mileage out of E85.

Have been running the EL wagon on 91 for about 8 years now. Never had a problem with blocked injectors.

Yeah, TBH ive never had a problem with 91 in a falcodore.

91s hit list has been mostly nissan, toyota and honda. Pulsars, Corollas, Tidas, Echos, Celicas, Civics, that sort of thing and yes I have fixed a lot of bad injectors as a result of 91.

Either way I classify 91 as piss and think anyone would have to be stupid to use it in anything. Your call.

Well, I suppose I have Datalogit so will just buy 200L drums of E85 and run straight E85 at the circuit and throw 98 tune back in for getting around town. Pain in the ass, but everyone else is doing it so the lap times don't stack up without it :( The cars running it just have so much extra grunt for free, its not a level playing field running a full weight RB20 on 98 :(

Nobody has said anything here but United have 100 back. My car makes an easy 10-15rwkws more with it so tempted to run a 50:50 with 100 United / E85 to try and get some mileage out of the 200L of E85.

yeah i noticed the united 100, but i tuned with bp98 as usual i think, actually I dunno cause the fuel had been in the tank for 3 or 4 months before the tune so whatever I filled up with last, might have been caltex :unsure:

And people say fuel goes off...:no: so the united 100 is good yeah..?

Yeh, my tunes are not that line ball so when United have 100 I go to my 100 tune and just run 98 on the street. But when I go to the track I make sure I am running 100. Keep in mind 8 out of 10 drives I dont hit more then 4-6psi as I drive to attract as little attention as possible :whistling:

^ thats awesome mate thanks for sharing, helps me decide if i want one on my SR :)

Can you divulge the specs of that motor? Is it heavily moded or internally stock etc? headwork and cams? Thanks,

Also great to hear your getting back on the dyno today dori! cant wait

SR is forged with 260 pro cams with solid lifters. But tiny front housing is restricting power.

gday guys, thought id post my results from using one of these turbos

i have a tdo06 20g sl2 8cm rear on my rb20

turbosmart 40mm wastegate

550cc denso injectors

bosch 040 fuel pump

z32 afm

splitfire coilpacks

ebay spec front mount

3inch exhaust

Nisstune

still needs a little tweeking like a new CAS, decent front mount and cam gears are on there way.

post-80927-0-85810000-1331632426_thumb.jpg

cheers - trent

How much boost pressure? Looks like around 1bar from the figure. The cas holding you back? And what exhaust manifold?

Just trying to gauge if one of these is a compariable replacement to the trust item.

Cheers.

Cheers. Engine bay needs work as I have never cleaned it up properly after the fire. Plus loads of other small jobs where I just dont have the time as I am always away with work. Like ripping the dash apart on the drive up to Sydney over Xmas because my phone charger stopped working. So I cracked the shits and ripped out the centre console :closedeyes: Farking old cars...if you try to keep them tidy it never ends :nyaanyaa:

SR is forged with 260 pro cams with solid lifters. But tiny front housing is restricting power.

Im not sure about that, i think its the same as their 3" cover but with a 2.4" neck.

Thanks for sharing btw :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...