Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to spend less time on SAU and more time tuning my drifter aye :)

Been flat out with work. As u all know customers come first before my own cars. Well unless theres a race meet on.

Use excuse that tuning the drifter is good advertising... Good advertising = More customers

Have to spend money to make money :)

Just tune it farken! :thumbsup:

Use excuse that tuning the drifter is good advertising... Good advertising = More customers

Have to spend money to make money :)

Just tune it farken! :thumbsup:

This. Then stock up on a bolt on kit consisting of:

Kando

Tial 44

NZ manifold

Dump

Intake

Cooler pipe

Then customers can drop off their car and you can install the kit PLUS tune it. Start emailing Suppliers of those parts (and a boily) and organise a 10 batch buy at discounted rates, pass on some of the discount to your customers with KICK ASS labour charge and your off n racing!

GOLD

does anyone wanna buy a TD06 3" turbo front cover? lol

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

You might save $100 but you then need to assemble and balance the turbo. So I would get a price on balancing it prior to buying it in peices.

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete.

I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

tumblr_ldp3jukzHo1qb9a2wo1_500.png

Does that include oil/water lines?

You might save $100 but you then need to assemble and balance the turbo. So I would get a price on balancing it prior to buying it in peices.

what $100 for a balance..................the cores/wheels are already balanced

Edited by stocker

i think the surge cover will definitely fix my issue (at least i hope it will lol) :)

only time will tell.

They are right in saying keep it for now man, Lith did say the VCT could be your issue.

Remember changing the cam timing alters the motors effective VE, just like opening the throttle does. (makes the motor more efficient)

That being said different VE = different area of the graph at given RPM/boost.

CFM = L x RPM x VE x Pr

5660

So watch this..

2.5 x 4000 x 90 x 2.5 / 5660 = 397.5 CFM

Now look here (Ive picked 97% as a random number as an example):

2.5 x 4000 x 97 x 2.5 / 5660 = 428.45 CFM

= Higher CFM, meaning further to the right of the comp map. If that doesnt make sense, I did you a graph. Remember that the outermost limit of the map on the LEFT side is surge and the RIGHT side is heat (excessive heat).

Remember also, these are rough calculations.. The VE could be lower or the comp map could be a little mis represented.. Either way, a rough calculation shows the motor is pretty damn close to the surge line at 4000 rpm.

post-43588-0-39712500-1333524737_thumb.gif

Now plot it yourself at 3700 RPM where you probably are hitting 20psi and watch it come even closer if not cross the line.

Balancing in the east must be cheap as chips then.

sorry mate the point here is the Kando chra's comes built and balanced. you then just buy the housings and lines.

i hope that clears it up for you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...