Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need help turbo experts.

In a Kando Dynamics what would turbo would be comparable with a T04Z 1.06ish A/R? I'm terrible with this stuff so please be kind.

Cheers :)

I need help turbo experts.

In a Kando Dynamics what would turbo would be comparable with a T04Z 1.06ish A/R? I'm terrible with this stuff so please be kind.

Cheers :)

T04/66 P-trim..i reckon they even did one with a 1.00, last time i checked

they sell them as T04S/T04R with 84mm compressor wheel

Edited by jet_r31

T04/66 P-trim..i reckon they even did one with a 1.00, last time i checked

they sell them as T04S/T04R with 84mm compressor wheel

Yep, the one that Artz linked is what I came up with as well.

I think we're onto a winner! :D

A Freddy plenum isn't really going to help much either..the stock one can handle anything a td06 20g can throw at it....probably make better torque too..also if you get the right ecu you won't need a boost controller ;)

I forgot to add that i am running a apexi power FC with hand controller, i know the freddy plenum wasnt the smartest move but i did it to tidy up the engine bay until a fab up my own one...eventually.

So in your opinions would the anti surge be more beneficial as opposed to the non anti surge TD06 20G?

I forgot to add that i am running a apexi power FC with hand controller, i know the freddy plenum wasnt the smartest move but i did it to tidy up the engine bay until a fab up my own one...eventually.

So in your opinions would the anti surge be more beneficial as opposed to the non anti surge TD06 20G?

well if you already have a freddy its fine, i just thought to save some coin if you were planning a build.. . :thumbsup:

seems non anti surge is the go, mine works fine without it anyway...have you considered a T67?? seems your all set up for it...

If you lay the charts over each other there is nothing in it..tdo6 has a little more torque downlow but if you are already top mounting may as well go t67 its a killer...see hypergear he has a new billet job too should be even better..

If you lay the charts over each other there is nothing in it..tdo6 has a little more torque downlow but if you are already top mounting may as well go t67 its a killer...see hypergear he has a new billet job too should be even better..

Hmm well this just made things a whole lot more difficult to decide hah, is there dyno graphs on this topic for both the turbos'?

i wouldnt mind seeing them to compare, of course the graphs would have to be based on RB25DET, with relatively similar mods. i have been looking but cant really seem to find them.

Yeh I'd be taking a hypergear option over a kando if I was looking today... Have a look at the SS2 ex gate results, it seems to make the power earlier on then fall off around 6500 where as the T67 dosen't seem to reach full potential until 7500 and beyond.. so realistically for a car with a stock rev limit I think the hypergear is the smarter option??

Kando is cheaper I think? but you get much better service before and after sale with the hypergear.

I emailed Kando about a non anti surge housing, suprised i got an email back after i was told i was blocked after leaving neautral feedback. $175 delivered, in stock now, i'll order one and do a comparrison.

I just bought a billet t67 of Stao with his own comp wheels profile. Must sell my previous setup to fund the new one lol. some one buy it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/416349-td06-20g-l2-complete-turbo-setup-for-rb25-290kw-setup/

anyone used the billet comp wheeled t67 yet im purchasing a new core is it worth the extra 200 ???

Yeh before and after graphs are in here somewhere... Hard to say if it did anything cause I put in poncams at the same time, boost didn't come on any earlier so I'd say pass. Maybe you could get it at half price if you ask him to fit it before sending.

Hard to say if it did anything cause I put in poncams at the same time, boost didn't come on any earlier so I'd say pass.

It seems that the benefit of billet compressor design is in improved efficiency at higher PR, not in dramatically reduced boost response times. Still be interesting to try them back to back if only to see whether response and power delivery is any more/less progressive.

I'd say unless you are planning on running 20+psi stick with the std comp wheel. For my money I would be asking about the thrust bearing - seem to recall spotting a "race" upgrade to 360 degree version in the Kamak catalogue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...