Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting, is that on a 2.6,2.8 or 3.0, I have had good success with the twin GT-RSs so far but the exhaust side is becoming a restriction on the 3.0

So even the TD05s with the slightly bigger exhaust wheel and a good comp wheel should help

Will be interested to know if the 68HTA comp wheel can be fitted to either TD05s or TD06s

This is in reference to 2L motors in single IWG configuration.

I believe that the resultant geometry of the enlarged housing (its made for TD05H wheel) is not adequate for the 61mm TD06SL2 and the character sucks. Both parties I know of have struggled to exceed much over the 200kw mark. A change of turbos has resulted in far superior results, one of them switching back to a Kando TD05H-18G (T518Z).

I think the mentioned 9 blade TD05H combined with the 68HTA wheel could be mighty promising at your level, but am not sure the cost exercise would yield benefits over pre-fabed Kando billet 16G units.

Never heard of that issue but don't really know anyone who has tried a T25 TD06 kando off the top of my head... Though I was sure I had heard of them.

A really quick Google brought this totally reasonable result up and no evidence of any dramas, can you point us at any reads on the drama you are talking about?

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/nissan-infiniti-tech/814254-kinugawa-20g-turbo-review.html

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Hypergear mentioned some thing about housing geometry in their latest T28 turbo. Not sure what size they ended up using, their latest ATR28 ss2 is pretty amazing for a little SR.

He cropped the larger turbine until it was the maximum size the T28 housing could accept.

Lith, 260 is a very reasonable result. The two I know of (known from face to face interaction) failed to exceed 220kw.

Well it seems it is definitely possible, hard to know what to read from it when a couple go wrong... Entirely possible there was something else at play there but with so little info it's a bit hard to make a sweeping judgement. I do know someone who recently had a poor result with a completely unrelated brand of turbo where someone shoved a big wheel into a non native turbine housing and that bombed quite badly so it seems plausible I guess. I wish I could remember where I am sure I heard or saw someone with a similar combo which made good power, as it was discussed when we were plotting development for my mates S14. The 16G was selected because it was going to suit better, we had no indication or assumption a T25 TD06 would underperform, well aside from the fact that with stock cams it wouldn't make too much over 200kw on petrol.

. Hence not being considered a great match for his needs as he was unlikely to upgrade anything else for sometime to come

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...

I know this question has been asked many times but If any one has first hand experience with the Kinugawa Td06h-20g 8cm Rb20det bolt on kits that are internally gated Please Say what you think.

Ive heard that the gates are to small and cause bad boost spike?

Ive been told they dont spike as much if you run a higher Boost through it ( around 18 Pound ).

Ive tried to search other places and havnt found much, just people bagging them out.

I don't have first hand experience but have read In other forums that people are just modifying the waste gate and having no problems at all. I know they get to it with a die grinder and bore it out a bit and the flap seems to be fine how it is.

T67 looks like its going to fit fairly easily with a 25mm or 30mm spacer

looks like there room to go even bigger turbo (if air con is removed to make the inlet easy)

(this is on a 34 gtt) I'll post pics once I find a spacers that's not $95

feel free to tell me what stud sizes I need to :)

Interesting, is that on a 2.6,2.8 or 3.0, I have had good success with the twin GT-RSs so far but the exhaust side is becoming a restriction on the 3.0

So even the TD05s with the slightly bigger exhaust wheel and a good comp wheel should help

Will be interested to know if the 68HTA comp wheel can be fitted to either TD05s or TD06s

For some reason I thought I responded to this - of course they can :D I had even been pondering trying to buy some bits and making some hybrid things to experiment with though I'm not sure if I am THAT motivated.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=68HTASale&Category_Code=SP

T67 looks like its going to fit fairly easily with a 25mm or 30mm spacer

looks like there room to go even bigger turbo (if air con is removed to make the inlet easy)

(this is on a 34 gtt) I'll post pics once I find a spacers that's not $95

It fits fine, I even managed to fit one low mount on an s14 with a little grinding.

Make sure the spacers are the shape of the hole in the manifold, not the size of a T3 gasket which is much larger.

For some reason I thought I responded to this - of course they can :D I had even been pondering trying to buy some bits and making some hybrid things to experiment with though I'm not sure if I am THAT motivated.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=68HTASale&Category_Code=SP

I thought you had too :), that is very interesting, how hard would that be to get "GTR" housing to make it a bolton for RB26s, looks like I might be up for new turbs soon so that maybe an option, the billet Kando bolton TD05-18g are what I was thinking but these give me something to think about

I thought you had too :), that is very interesting, how hard would that be to get "GTR" housing to make it a bolton for RB26s, looks like I might be up for new turbs soon so that maybe an option, the billet Kando bolton TD05-18g are what I was thinking but these give me something to think about

I wouldn't imagine it would be ridiculous, just get the Kando housing (or something that will bolt onto the Mitsi plate) and modify it to suit the profile. In my make believe world where I have more engineering skills I like the idea of designing a custom RB26 bolton housing that has a diffuser area etc which better suits the 68HTA wheel, etc. I am sure that a turbo with matching (where it counts) outlines to the stock RB26 housings could have better flowing internal geometry, to allow for the 40-50lb/min flow per turbo you need for stock mount madness.

Just run those housings. They are circlip compressor covers so easy to clock them however you want. Just weld alloy inlets to the compressor cover...I think they would simply be too big, even on an RB30....though would be sure to make uber power considering a friends twin TD06-20G 2.7L made something like 550rwkws on race fuel years and years ago.

Yeah I would consider either to be most suited to the lunatics who would otherwise be putting a big single on their car but want it to be low key, under the bonnet at least haha

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Yeah I would consider either to be most suited to the lunatics who would otherwise be putting a big single on their car but want it to be low key, under the bonnet at least haha Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Lol yep that would be me :D

The T618z are what I wanted for this build but couldn't find any for sale and settled for Piggys GT-RSs, and as much as they make good power with decent response on the 3.0 the exhaust side is choking it

Now that I'm getting a bit of white smoke I'm thinking they are on their way out so now trying to decide between TD05s or 06s, I think the TD05s with the billet 18g comp wheel and 9 blade rear should show decent improvements on what I currently have with out hurting the response to much, but then there is the TD06s with the billet 20g wheel and 9 blade rear that would make massive power for low mounts but at what cost to response

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...