Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To you guys using the supplied kinugawa braided lines, do I need to use some sort of thread tape on the line to fitting and if so what type?

Just starting to bolt it all up today/tomorrow.

They are AN fittings so they press together as your tighten them, with tapered ends. I havent used any tape on any of mine and all have been fine.

Anyway so what's the verdict on the SL2 fellas..seems it shapes ok to an old HG or a 3071..but is it any better or worse, cause all in all the setup is almost as expensive..

I am yet to see any 3071s stand up AS sharp @ 3500 RPM and make 300kw mate, so I think your ahead.

In my case the 3071 is a LOT more than the <$700 kando. If you buy the CHRA and housing sepparate its about that much cheaper then the $750 listed price ($560~ actually). The Garrett also doesnt come with the V band ring or clamp. The cheapest Ive found a 3071 for is also over $1300.

Realistically the Hypergear is the nearest competitor for value but I think hes still working on his consistency as far as 20psi @ 3500 and a track stable 300kw (even on E85). I think the nearest equivilent HG to your setup wont take the punishment (heat wise) yours will.

Hey everyone I am currently fitting a kinugawa td06-20g to my r32 rb20 on a hybrid performance high mount manifold, Just tring to work out how I'm going to do a few things, if anyone has done this mod befOre could you upload photos of stages of your build or just pics of engine bay with piping layouts, any help would be great just after a few ideas

The TD06 will probably be very flat from 2 - 3 and get a fairly abrupt rush of power around the 4k mark.

this part is the most tempting :P

in saying that it will be mostly for street use with occasional drift practice for learning so the clear result has to be a td05.

the last part however - This is all provided you set it up right. - i was thinking the usual fuel pump, injectors, coils, manifold, ext gate, afm, fmic, stock intake plenum (if anyone can convince me its worth buying a front facing for the rb20 go ahead :P ) and then a nistune..again if a PFC is worth the money for the 20 do explain.

Has anyone done a GT3071R on E85?

not that comes to mind quickly. the only one off the top of my head is Mick_O, but thats a GTX3071....

thing is tho, which im sure you will agree with, E85 doesnt do as many wonders for MHI items as it does for garrett. I admit an E85 GT30 variant is always more interesting than its 98 comparison.. But the MHI range seems to be pretty efficient at running out of available flow before they need E85 to keep ping away.

Thats a personal observation of mine anyway. That can be seen by comparing <300kw and >300kw 20g's.. the difference is notable but not mind blowing, keeping in mind ARTZ didnt have a full tune completed on 98 due to a slipping clutch, but the E85/added boost and no doubt lots of timing added more power in the same places. The delivery was still the same and it was still standing up as strong at the same RPM.

So today I went to order some water line fittings for my tdo6sl2-20g from Kando via Ebay today to find out he has blocked me! When I bought the turbo he sent the wrong oil line in the kit and I tried for about a month to get a response from him after sending about 4 messages. So understandably the last message I sent was a little heated, to this I actually got a reply and the correct line sent out. I then apologised for the last message but he obviously went ahead and blocked me even though it was all due to his lack of customer support.

Ive since had a look at his ebay feedback and appears that if any one allegedly isn't happy with the product or his service and leaves a neutral or negative feedback he just blocks them for ever! So I wonder how my warranty would go with him if I ever need it.... This is making me rethink if I even want to use this turbo now, considering selling it and going with a Precision 5558.

End rant...

Edited by slippylotion

Hey guys, these 240kw and 260kw claims with the td0618g and 20g respectively, with what kind of supporting mods are we talking? Forged rebuild or basic bolt-ons (inj/pump/ecu)?

Reason I asked as I have a RB20, TD0620G, Nismo 550, Walbro and NIStune. Produced 212kw @ 15psi. I'm almost certain this turbo inst efficient until 20+ psi right?

Obviously next mod(s) are Z32 and Cam Gears, will this net the 260kw claim once tuned again? Engine is stock internals..

Edited by Kane_R32

Hey guys, these 240kw and 260kw claims with the td0618g and 20g respectively, with what kind of supporting mods are we talking? Forged rebuild or basic bolt-ons (inj/pump/ecu)?

Reason I asked as I have a RB20, TD0620G, Nismo 550, Walbro and NIStune. Produced 212kw @ 15psi. I'm almost certain this turbo inst efficient until 20+ psi right?

Obviously next mod(s) are Z32 and Cam Gears, will this net the 260kw claim once tuned again? Engine is stock internals..

Are you still on standard injectors too? if so change them and put a Z32 afm on and it should make way more power when its retuned with more boost.

the 240kw claim was based on TD05H not TD06, TD06 is a 20G job (you can order it in either but I recommend them that way)

how is the TD06 mounted? stock manifold? internal gate? etc.

Assume you have a bog stock R32 GTST, here is what you want (in a perfect world) to net a neat 260kw:

Fuel pump

550cc injectors (or larger)

Z32 AFM + Nistune (or other good ecu, being map sensor based will mean no need for Z32)

New coilpacks or upgraded items

6boost manifold or similar quality item

TD06SL2 20G 8cm

44mm external gate (or larger)

3" TBE without any restrictions

2.5" intercooler piping from turbo outlet to throttle body

standard issue 600x300 intercooler or better

3" metal intake pipe minimum

Adjustable cam gears

start with a bog stock car and do those mods and you should have a neat 260kw. you can also use the stock manifold and hang the external gate off the rear housing, but that is yet to be done on an RB20 so i cannot vouch for its success rate.

That is the exact setup I am running on my SR and am aiming for 270-280kw on 98ron. Motor will have cams though, as SR cams are not as nice as the RB ones from factory :(

Just on that 44mm ext gate, you can use a 38mm gate. Before I purchased my Tial 38mm I contacted Tial to see if I should use the 38 or 44 and they said for the TD06SL2-20G turbo the 38mm was ideal. Added bonuses with that is that the 38mm is cheaper and smaller so little bit easier to mount.

Edited by slippylotion

This is making me rethink if I even want to use this turbo now, considering selling it and going with a Precision 5558.

i really dont think the PT and a TD06 are intended for a similar application.... so going to one of those is like saying im thinking i want to go a completely different direction.

put the TD06 on mate, it is what it is.. cant expect world class service from a person half the world away (postage is freaking expensive to send shit back anyway..)

i really dont think the PT and a TD06 are intended for a similar application.... so going to one of those is like saying im thinking i want to go a completely different direction.

put the TD06 on mate, it is what it is.. cant expect world class service from a person half the world away (postage is freaking expensive to send shit back anyway..)

Yeah your probably right, just a bit annoyed with the service, Cheap prices shouldn't mean sh!t service, I bet he's still making a reasonable margin. Its a pain I can't buy the fittings from him on ebay as to buy them in aeroflow or speed flow versions is about double the price and Im working to tight budget atm.

Edited by slippylotion

start with a bog stock car and do those mods and you should have a neat 260kw. you can also use the stock manifold and hang the external gate off the rear housing, but that is yet to be done on an RB20 so i cannot vouch for its success rate.

That is the exact setup I am running on my SR and am aiming for 270-280kw on 98ron. Motor will have cams though, as SR cams are not as nice as the RB ones from factory :(

yeah Scotty made one up for another guy here, pretty much same setup as mine .td06 but with 40mm compgate..

I was there when it was tuned but cant remember, it pulled somewhere between 240-260 though and held boost well..

pretty sure that 212kw must be an IG model or a gate would of been listed...no doubt there inlies the problem

no gate mounted on turbine housing and its an 8cm...

if that was aimed at me, its originally an IT, with welded gate open. Then a External welded onto the stock manifold.

TD06H-20G I'm told by previous owner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...