Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought a set of Speedbleeders; https://www.speedbleeder.com/

SB 1010 x 4 to go in with my new calipers. Also got a set for my GSXR 1000. 7 Bleeders + postage: $56. Had these on my old CBR 929 RR, makes bleeding a breeze

ALL_BLEEDERS.jpg

Edited by Daleo

They are an awsome idea how do you figure out which one suits your calipers?

i ordered the nissan ones, the are like 10mm and 1mm pitch i think

i just hoped that they would fit and they did

SB 1010 is right i think

They are an awsome idea how do you figure out which one suits your calipers?

i ordered the nissan ones, the are like 10mm and 1mm pitch i think

i just hoped that they would fit and they did

SB 1010 is right i think

Bingo :thumbsup: There are also short & long versions. And Stainless (twice the price tho').

Fitted my Group Buy Swaybarsbanana.gif

Best Mod Ever.

My son of rajab, it's fun to drive now!

Fellas, you WILL NOT be disappointed. Bars are perfect, one clamp was a little tight, but a tap with a hammer sorted it out.

All up, less than an hours work, what a difference.

is that a good thing? sometimes the core isnt supposed to be pressurised with oil, hence the restrictor and large oil drain

yeh it isnt meant to be, but the restrictor i 1mm thick, and even the bb highflow didnt sound like it was getting enough..n eeing as im converting to bush core, it needs more, we only opened it up a ml

ahh ok cool! just making sure oil starvation/too much oil wasnt the problem of the other turbo.

dale, swaybars are awesome hey :)

combined with the BCs they are great on the road

Replaced some worn/stripped/broken wheel studs on the Stagea today ... along with getting some new wheel nuts too. Pretty easy job really.

Also pulled some bits off under the bonnet. Getting some small issues resovled and bling for the engine bay. :P But the guy hasn't finished the parts yet, so the Stag is still in pieces. :(

While its out of action, removed the HKS 2530 turbo to replace some gaskets ... and found a leak in the dump pipe :( Need to get it welded back up before fitting.

post-48775-0-10728400-1296278082_thumb.jpg

Thinking while the turbo is out, that I'll just sell it and upgrade.

post-48775-0-47638500-1296278183_thumb.jpg post-48775-0-63555700-1296278233_thumb.jpg post-48775-0-55117100-1296278272_thumb.jpg

tried to go to wet and wild today

went to take off and if i accelerated too much the whole car died instantly

drive soft and it was fine, too much throttle at low revs and it died (ecu powered off, ecutalk display shut off)

key off and back on and it was fine again

so i pulled out the fuel pump to look for a clogged filter but it wasn't too bad

put it back together and it was better, 3rd gear full throttle was fine but 2nd shat itself once on my test drive but was fine apart from that one incident

at idle the fuel pump was getting ~7.7V (is this low?)

i'm thinking that the fuel pump is on its way out, or the voltage dropping system

thoughts?

(afm voltage was normal, ~1.2v @ idle)

check the ground wire for the fuel pump. might need cleaning

im not sure if they use a dual speed pump, if not then anything under 12v is probably not good mate

we still have dual speed i think

will do, i took the whole thing out and it had a funky setup (float on one thing and fuel pump inside a box of the floor of the tank, fuel return ran back inside the box)

will check the ground tho, thanks for the idea

dale, swaybars are awesome hey :)

combined with the BCs they are great on the road

Hell yeah! I'm just on the middle setting of both bars and the difference is incredible! The back feels spot on, I might go to the hardest setting on the front and see what that's like.:banana: I think I'm also going to soften my dampers a little to accomodate the extra roll stiffness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...