Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dude its stainless Steel. the shininess advertises itself.

its quietened down over the week.. really not so loud anymore. i do like the sound noow.

but now to tackle this boost issue. :(

Did any RS models come with LSDs? Havent put it on the hoist to check if I have an LSD or ATTESSA yet...

Got my Blitz panel filter last night, so plugs and air filter going in tomorrow before I head down to the local craft brewery to watch the taxi racing.

Yup, HICAS equipped models got LSD.

thus all ARXs have LSD. Any RS or AXIS with HICAS will have LSD. RX will never have one as HICAS wasnt an option.

PRTechnology (Porsche tune shop). They made up a jig for the dump/front pipe, so im guessing they will sell a few! I will keep you posted. :thumbsup:

Love it. Bends or no bends, it looks like a nice bit of gear. PM me the price?

Yup, HICAS equipped models got LSD.

thus all ARXs have LSD. Any RS or AXIS with HICAS will have LSD. RX will never have one as HICAS wasnt an option.

So povo pack, and luxo barge models got one (with HICAS), but the best model didn't...?:wacko:

My ribs hurt... Craig might have to install my LSD...:ph34r:

In Other news- PNM35 travelled to Orange and back today - about 520kms 3 ppl, shit in the back. Did 10.4km/L on the screen, on track for about 750kms out of the tank- Bells line of road- so plenty of hills.

Much enjoyed Sway bar handling, but some of the bumps on the road hurt my ass- def time for a re-asphalt.

Nice. Will have to hurry up and get it on a hoist to check then.

In other news, car has a pretty loud turbo whistle that wasn't picked up during inspection. Was going to get it balanced, but the turbo guys have suggested it wouldn't be worth it, and go for a stage 2 or 3 rebuild instead. Stage 3 sounds like the way to go, but they won't do it until I've upgraded the fuel system and intercooler. Guys seemed to have a fair idea about M35s, a lot of what they said matched up to what I've read on here.

So guess I'll put up with it being noisy for a while until I've upgraded everythimg else. Just annoyed that I had the car inspected by people who were supposed to know the cars and they didn't even identify an obvious issue.

/end rant

Nice. Will have to hurry up and get it on a hoist to check then.

In other news, car has a pretty loud turbo whistle that wasn't picked up during inspection. Was going to get it balanced, but the turbo guys have suggested it wouldn't be worth it, and go for a stage 2 or 3 rebuild instead. Stage 3 sounds like the way to go, but they won't do it until I've upgraded the fuel system and intercooler. Guys seemed to have a fair idea about M35s, a lot of what they said matched up to what I've read on here.

So guess I'll put up with it being noisy for a while until I've upgraded everythimg else. Just annoyed that I had the car inspected by people who were supposed to know the cars and they didn't even identify an obvious issue.

/end rant

did you buy from a dealer or private sale?

Stage 3 isnt a great option, Aaron has boost spike issues with his. I went stage 1 on mine. If you go too laggy you will need to run a high stall converter when you build the box.

There may be a better option soon if you want to run an off the shelf Garrett. :whistling:

Nice. Will have to hurry up and get it on a hoist to check then.

In other news, car has a pretty loud turbo whistle that wasn't picked up during inspection. Was going to get it balanced, but the turbo guys have suggested it wouldn't be worth it, and go for a stage 2 or 3 rebuild instead. Stage 3 sounds like the way to go, but they won't do it until I've upgraded the fuel system and intercooler. Guys seemed to have a fair idea about M35s, a lot of what they said matched up to what I've read on here.

So guess I'll put up with it being noisy for a while until I've upgraded everythimg else. Just annoyed that I had the car inspected by people who were supposed to know the cars and they didn't even identify an obvious issue.

/end rant

Turbo whine is normal....just make sure you keep good oil up to it!

To go to a stage 3 setup you will need about $6,500 to get it working properly.....and that's before you touch the gearbox!....and that's also providing you do most of the work yourself!....on the bright you will be pushing close to 300AWKW's on BP!

Turbo whine is normal....just make sure you keep good oil up to it!

To go to a stage 3 setup you will need about $6,500 to get it working properly.....and that's before you touch the gearbox!....and that's also providing you do most of the work yourself!....on the bright you will be pushing close to 300AWKW's on BP!

and that provided if you want the turbo to only come on at 5k rpm

I bought it from a dealer, but other than that thr car seems mint, happy with it.

Put the air filter in and removed the inspection plate, seems to pull harder. Love driving the thing every time I go out!

had the car in for a tune today as did scott

i made 275KW atw with 800 nm of torque on pump 98

and then did a tune with the same power on e85, to make it safe.. with 900nm, when i get the box built ill do a proper tune on e85. oh yeh the box holds fine :)

preeettty happy. ill put up a sheet tomorrow of 98. didnt get an e85 one i dont think. :(

or scott can if he has em. lol

had the car in for a tune today as did scott

i made 275KW atw with 800 nm of torque on pump 98

and then did a tune with the same power on e85, to make it safe.. with 900nm, when i get the box built ill do a proper tune on e85. oh yeh the box holds fine :)

preeettty happy. ill put up a sheet tomorrow of 98. didnt get an e85 one i dont think. :(

or scott can if he has em. lol

your top speed must be awesome in that thing!!!! :P

Good figure bud....well done!.....I still would have thought you would crack the 300AWKW's though!....what PSI?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...