Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cihan is borrowing it, otherwise you guys wouldn't have your cars tuned. You can thank me later. :)

The Innovative is only $200 delivered, no gauge, as the informeter has an analogue input. It can simulate the stock o2 allowing you to stick it in the stock bung, although it should really be a meter or so down the pipe. Cheaper than a replacement stock narrow band o2 sensor too.

been thinking about buying one for ages, they make another one with a memory card in it so it logs without a laptop then you dump the files

i'm thinking about buying one to make into a temporary setup that can be whacked up the exhaust just to check whats going on (exhaust probe and 12v cigarette lighter plug)

Bought a runner spacer from Craig (thanks Craig!) and I cant install it until next weekend at the earliest dammit!

Will go on with plugs, and fluid change.

What software are you after? Ive got a few different consult programs for W7

i need software for the stagea and maybe some for R32 and S14, but the stagea stuff is the most important.

It doesn't cost much to get an extra bung welded in pre-cat if you want to run a wideband in addition to your stock O2 sensor. I have additional bungs on both cars.

What's the advantage of running the o2 and the wideband together?

both me and Jethro are running an eManage, it will throw a fault code regardless.

neither of us have the o2 plugged in.. its only there for economy at cruise i think... mine was fudged any..

It wont cause a limp or anything.. it will just throw a code and not try to retune timing..

What's the advantage of running the o2 and the wideband together?

If you want to see whether the factory O2 sensor is still working in closed loop.

If you have two cars you can buy just one wideband setup rather than one for each car.

If you want to tune the car you won't need to remove the factory O2 sensor.

If you want to see whether the factory O2 sensor is still working in closed loop.

If you have two cars you can buy just one wideband setup rather than one for each car.

If you want to tune the car you won't need to remove the factory O2 sensor.

i think our o2 actually fiddle with timing itself. everytime Cihan tried tuning mine previously with the o2 plugged in, the tune would just go out of whack on the next run.

i unplugged it, and it was fine from there on - that being said my o2 was f**ked. but i dont think its necessary if your tuning.

i need software for the stagea and maybe some for R32 and S14, but the stagea stuff is the most important.

there is no vehicle specific software, consult is just the protocol that all nissans between about 1989 - 2002 use. and there is plenty of free software floating around. i've got a few, ECUTalk, Conzult Free, TECU, Nissan Scantech (i think this ones free). If you want to shell out some money you could use Nissan Datascan. even the Nistune software will perform consult operations.

If your looking for a good solid little program to check error codes, look at gauge readouts and some data logging than look at ECUTalk. its a great little program, i used to use it all the time before i got my nistune software licence. As far as i know there aren't any free consult programs that can run active tests, i think the free conzult can but its limited.

What software are you after? Ive got a few different consult programs for W7

can you pm me with what you have please? my only working free copy (nissan data scan i think) won't work anymore

It doesn't cost much to get an extra bung welded in pre-cat if you want to run a wideband in addition to your stock O2 sensor. I have additional bungs on both cars.

+1 on this, its exactly what i have done and for a couple of reasons, one so i can remove the wideband and use it on other cars for tuning, and two, you shouldn't be running a wideband where the factory O2 sensor is, it get way too hot for them in that position, a general rule of thumb is about 1meter back from the turbo outlet if you can.

also, most wideband units will have a narrowband simulation output that you can use to hook up to your ecu if you don't want to run the stock one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...