Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitted nice white LEDs to cabin lights (standard) plus white LED strips to footwells both front & back.

Wired them to come on with door open (not running all the time) which gives a nice ambience when you first hop in.

You have to choose colour, brightness and method of operation carefully. It can be a fine line sometimes between classy and RICER :laugh: .

i was thinking of putting in red strips in the footwells (match the stock dials and doesn't affect night vision)

but i couldn't be bothered with the wiring (not the biggest fan of wiring)

which strips did you go with?

What catch cans are M35 owners running, and where are you mounting them?

I was looking at a nice Greddy one on eBay for around $100, looked like it should fit up against the battery enclosure?

Excuse what may seem like a dumb question but why do you run two catch cans? I understand the one to go between the intake and cam cover breather, I had one on my S14, but what's the other for?

Excuse what may seem like a dumb question but why do you run two catch cans? I understand the one to go between the intake and cam cover breather, I had one on my S14, but what's the other for?

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

post-37023-0-78879200-1303161489_thumb.jpg

post-37023-0-95091200-1303161553_thumb.jpg

post-37023-0-35605300-1303161681_thumb.png

Edited by Jetwreck

i was thinking of putting in red strips in the footwells (match the stock dials and doesn't affect night vision)

but i couldn't be bothered with the wiring (not the biggest fan of wiring)

which strips did you go with?

I don't know anyonewho likes wiring - just a means to an end I suppose :)

I got these ones off Flea-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270721573963&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

But don't believe the price as that has been changed. I paid $20 for 6 strips, including postage. I also put 2 in the back (inset into the grab handles) that also work when interior light is on.

Red strips would look pretty cool, especially if they match other lights. My white ones are just to aid getting in/out or finding stuff in the back, not to be all all the time. I am going with different ambient lighting for night driving but I've not finished deciding on colour or location yet.

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

That's really strange. :/

PCV is short for? I'm just trying to get my head around this...

Why would they run what seems to be two sepparate breathers for the engine...

Do both put oil back through the intake/cooler?

Does any one have any pic of the locations where the catch cat lines go to, not the catch can location.

Cheers.

That's really strange. :/

PCV is short for? I'm just trying to get my head around this...

Why would they run what seems to be two sepparate breathers for the engine...

Do both put oil back through the intake/cooler?

Does any one have any pic of the locations where the catch cat lines go to, not the catch can location.

Cheers.

bit of a messy engine bay but it show's the PCV side....the rocker locations are a little harder to shoot but it runs into the back of the suction pipe.

post-37023-0-62594600-1303163573_thumb.png

Edited by Jetwreck

I guess the question which hasn't been asked is:

How much oil do your catch cans collect?

Do you drain them back to the sump?

At oil change as I only have the PVC one atm probably about 100ml's....my motor only has 47,000km's on it too!.....the other side is probably about the same!

An no I don't drain em back into the sump....I just collect and clean at service interval's.

I guess the question which hasn't been asked is:

How much oil do your catch cans collect?

Do you drain them back to the sump?

No, You drain it each time you do an oil change and I usually have around 1 - 1.5 inches of oil collected in the catch can.

The breather on the other bank sits directly below the intake resonator pipe that is in the upper right corner (black pipe) of Jetwrecks photo. This breather is quite a large diameter pipe which makes it a little tricky to match up to a smaller size catch can.

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

Actually, I don't have the one in the battery compartment.

I found that it didn't catch anything and I still have not yet installed the larger one under the airbox :blush:

No, You drain it each time you do an oil change and I usually have around 1 - 1.5 inches of oil collected in the catch can.

Yep, about the same as mine, although I drain about 25mm every 10,000kms (my service intervals).

Doesn't seem to make much difference how "experienced" your engine is either...

Cool. Thanks for the responses!

Means I'm not going to worry about it :whistling:

Pull apart your intake and have a look. Mine was full of gunk when I looked the other day, so I'm definitely going to. Just means I'll have to measure up and make sure I can fit it first.

Edited by bigkevracer

I was amazed how oily my intercooler was and I knew it wasnt working as well covered in oil. The breather catch can doesnt seem to catch much oil though, but heaps of water and ethanol vapour. The pcv definitely dumps oil down the middle two plenum runners, I have about the same 100ml going in each change, more in winter with the water condensate. I have fitted a ball valve on each to drain into the oil tray when doing the change.

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

DSC01390.jpg

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

DSC01390.jpg

Nice boat's!!!! :P

Have a great one....what size motor you got on the boat?

Edited by Jetwreck

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

mmm... Stag looks great, sounds like an awesome weekend.

Colour me green :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...