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What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

Finally got the sway bars in, wasnt able to do one of the rear upper mounts - bolt was just going to thread itself if we tried so left that mount and did the upper. Will organise for it to go to my mates work for hoist access - he'll be able to get in Dr Bolt to remove it & fix up the damage. Noticed some really weird knocking noises driving on gravel though - but wasnt present under full lock.. cant work out what it is (its not the lateral movement stoppers - removed them and it still did it).

Walbro went in also. Disassembly of the old housing was more than a small headf**k. Super tight fit to get the walbro in to the housing, but with the aid of some decent sized vice grips it got there. And after all this, the car will sit in my garage for another month :rolleyes:

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chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

prince_skyline Community Regular

prince_skyline

Posted
Posted

Fitted the 'M35 option' side mirrors today with the LED indicators - looks like i'll have to do my own wiring though cause there was no plug there for the indicators. I guess i was a bit hopeful that it would be just 'plug and play' - Being a factory option, i was hoping that Nissan would have the car prewired with a plug just sitting there, and that when someone orders this option, they would just install the mirrors from the factory.....oh well....at least they look good!!!

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Noises only on gravel, not on tarmac? I haven't noticed any weird noises, but then again I didn't mangle the install :nyaanyaa:

One Walbro going to flow enough for those 1000cc injectors? Only ask because I'm just thinking back to what Scotty's weapon of mass fuel destruction looked like for his 1000cc injectors. His was for e85 though.

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

Noises only on gravel, not on tarmac? I haven't noticed any weird noises, but then again I didn't mangle the install :nyaanyaa:

Extremely bumpy gravel, so under really constant randomly undulating surface it was making an almost woodpecker noise from the passenger side.

One Walbro going to flow enough for those 1000cc injectors? Only ask because I'm just thinking back to what Scotty's weapon of mass fuel destruction looked like for his 1000cc injectors. His was for e85 though.

See how we go, I wont be even close to maxing out the 1000cc's initially, nor running E85 yet.

captinsane Community Regular

captinsane

Posted
Posted

Highflow, 3" dump, FMIC and SAFC now installed. Sounds much more angry, has a ghey reverberation at 2K rpm but apart from that very happy. Feels better lower down in the RPM range too :)

Got to get rid of my misfire issue now. And I know it's not the AFM now because the tune had perfect AFR's, so earth or coils merckons. Sparkies should all have been gapped down to .6 from memory. Then once I fix that I can start winding up the boost and I can worry about fuel rail duty cycles and pumps and stuff (yay).

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I put a sticker on the back window.. definitely an easy stick-on mod netting about 2-3kw gain

Pics up soon.

Can't wait to see the pics. Those type of modes are one of the best bang-for-buck IMO, tho I think you're robbing yourself of a few kw's. Mmm, maybe not - it depends on the sticker.

I dropped my M35 to the repair shop to get the rear fixed (only 4 months since the truck rolled gently into into me) & I asked for most of the badges to be left off. Normally this would only net me about 3 - 4kw, but because there won't be any residual badge marks visible (it's being painted), I should be getting an easy 5kw from this mod.

S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

Can't wait to see the pics. Those type of modes are one of the best bang-for-buck IMO, tho I think you're robbing yourself of a few kw's. Mmm, maybe not - it depends on the sticker.

As requested, image below.

Definitely great value because I make them myself, but am certain that its around 3kw - as it indicates itself.

20110704162532.jpg

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

My Powerduct arrived today. Ended up finding one s/hand in Melbourne for $78 delivered. Very happy.

Also my 3" flex joint and 200cpsi cat arrived, now I can drop it off to get the dump and front pipes made.

Edited by slippylotion
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

3 & a half kw by my count :laugh: .

As requested, image below.

Definitely great value because I make them myself, but am certain that its around 3kw - as it indicates itself.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

You should be able to use a long breaker bar (or Strong arm) with a socket on the chassis rail.

Wrap the end of the bar with rag to stop it marking the paint, disconnect CAS & fuel pump fuse, get someone to give the key tiny hits quickly on & off as you support the bar as it slowly swings onto the chassis rail. One last hit will release bolt and you should be able to undo the rest of the way easily.

It sounds bodgy, but stacks of mechanics do it exactly this way and I've done it stacks of times on RB's with no issues.

Edited by Daleo
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

put an impact wrench on it, then a breaker bar on that, then some pipe on that

then rest the pipe on the chasis rail, crank the motor and it should crack it!

or you can use an old alternator belt and put a twist in it and do it up

but the 1st method works, i did it about a week ago and it worked easily (i tried the alternator belt thing but it didn't work)

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods.

I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol.

A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

Edited by QWK32
Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods.

I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol.

A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

Mate i'm in the trade, and thats just how it's done. You're only cracking the tension off, not using the engine to unwind the full length of thread.

To be honest it's probably easier to remove the radiator than the starter motor,(unless you have flexi head ratchet spanners)

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