Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got the sway bars in, wasnt able to do one of the rear upper mounts - bolt was just going to thread itself if we tried so left that mount and did the upper. Will organise for it to go to my mates work for hoist access - he'll be able to get in Dr Bolt to remove it & fix up the damage. Noticed some really weird knocking noises driving on gravel though - but wasnt present under full lock.. cant work out what it is (its not the lateral movement stoppers - removed them and it still did it).

Walbro went in also. Disassembly of the old housing was more than a small headf**k. Super tight fit to get the walbro in to the housing, but with the aid of some decent sized vice grips it got there. And after all this, the car will sit in my garage for another month :rolleyes:

Fitted the 'M35 option' side mirrors today with the LED indicators - looks like i'll have to do my own wiring though cause there was no plug there for the indicators. I guess i was a bit hopeful that it would be just 'plug and play' - Being a factory option, i was hoping that Nissan would have the car prewired with a plug just sitting there, and that when someone orders this option, they would just install the mirrors from the factory.....oh well....at least they look good!!!

Noises only on gravel, not on tarmac? I haven't noticed any weird noises, but then again I didn't mangle the install :nyaanyaa:

One Walbro going to flow enough for those 1000cc injectors? Only ask because I'm just thinking back to what Scotty's weapon of mass fuel destruction looked like for his 1000cc injectors. His was for e85 though.

Noises only on gravel, not on tarmac? I haven't noticed any weird noises, but then again I didn't mangle the install :nyaanyaa:

Extremely bumpy gravel, so under really constant randomly undulating surface it was making an almost woodpecker noise from the passenger side.

One Walbro going to flow enough for those 1000cc injectors? Only ask because I'm just thinking back to what Scotty's weapon of mass fuel destruction looked like for his 1000cc injectors. His was for e85 though.

See how we go, I wont be even close to maxing out the 1000cc's initially, nor running E85 yet.

Highflow, 3" dump, FMIC and SAFC now installed. Sounds much more angry, has a ghey reverberation at 2K rpm but apart from that very happy. Feels better lower down in the RPM range too :)

Got to get rid of my misfire issue now. And I know it's not the AFM now because the tune had perfect AFR's, so earth or coils merckons. Sparkies should all have been gapped down to .6 from memory. Then once I fix that I can start winding up the boost and I can worry about fuel rail duty cycles and pumps and stuff (yay).

I put a sticker on the back window.. definitely an easy stick-on mod netting about 2-3kw gain

Pics up soon.

Can't wait to see the pics. Those type of modes are one of the best bang-for-buck IMO, tho I think you're robbing yourself of a few kw's. Mmm, maybe not - it depends on the sticker.

I dropped my M35 to the repair shop to get the rear fixed (only 4 months since the truck rolled gently into into me) & I asked for most of the badges to be left off. Normally this would only net me about 3 - 4kw, but because there won't be any residual badge marks visible (it's being painted), I should be getting an easy 5kw from this mod.

Can't wait to see the pics. Those type of modes are one of the best bang-for-buck IMO, tho I think you're robbing yourself of a few kw's. Mmm, maybe not - it depends on the sticker.

As requested, image below.

Definitely great value because I make them myself, but am certain that its around 3kw - as it indicates itself.

20110704162532.jpg

My Powerduct arrived today. Ended up finding one s/hand in Melbourne for $78 delivered. Very happy.

Also my 3" flex joint and 200cpsi cat arrived, now I can drop it off to get the dump and front pipes made.

Edited by slippylotion

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

3 & a half kw by my count :laugh: .

As requested, image below.

Definitely great value because I make them myself, but am certain that its around 3kw - as it indicates itself.

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

You should be able to use a long breaker bar (or Strong arm) with a socket on the chassis rail.

Wrap the end of the bar with rag to stop it marking the paint, disconnect CAS & fuel pump fuse, get someone to give the key tiny hits quickly on & off as you support the bar as it slowly swings onto the chassis rail. One last hit will release bolt and you should be able to undo the rest of the way easily.

It sounds bodgy, but stacks of mechanics do it exactly this way and I've done it stacks of times on RB's with no issues.

Edited by Daleo

started a major service today, timing belt, water pump etc etc. i've got all week so i'm pacing myself putting in a couple hours every day. does anyone know if there is any access to get at the ring gear and jam it up, to stop the engine turning over to get the balancer bolt loose. i've never had to remove one on an auto before, and im not keen on removing the radiator to get the rattle gun on it.

put an impact wrench on it, then a breaker bar on that, then some pipe on that

then rest the pipe on the chasis rail, crank the motor and it should crack it!

or you can use an old alternator belt and put a twist in it and do it up

but the 1st method works, i did it about a week ago and it worked easily (i tried the alternator belt thing but it didn't work)

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods.

I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol.

A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

Edited by QWK32

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods.

I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol.

A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

Mate i'm in the trade, and thats just how it's done. You're only cracking the tension off, not using the engine to unwind the full length of thread.

To be honest it's probably easier to remove the radiator than the starter motor,(unless you have flexi head ratchet spanners)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...