Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nope, ARX and AXIS have a larger rolling diameter.

also PM35s are different, also as as 2WD and 4WD models of the PM35 (im only talking about models available in australia)

True Ian; but Ironpaw isn't running STD 17's on his anymore, (due to Brembos?) so his Rolling Dia. (depending on tyre profile) will be close to, if not slightly bigger than an AXIS and only around 3% smaller than an AR-X.

Detailed my car today, in anticipation of it's shiny new Aero Bars (which are taking WAAAAAY too long to get painted); my son of rajab it's a sexy bitch when it's shiny!:banana:

Dodo juice Lime Prime is very nice to use on black paint.

Edited by Daleo

dude post up some pics when its done!! i dont think ive seen a black aero model before...........

as for the wheels, wouldnt wheel weight make a difference too, unsprung weight helps with accelleratiion and braking :)

True Ian; but Ironpaw isn't running STD 17's on his anymore, (due to Brembos?) so his Rolling Dia. (depending on tyre profile) will be close to, if not slightly bigger than an AXIS and only around 3% smaller than an AR-X.

yeh i didnt want to compare with everyone else. i wanted to see if there was any improvement running the extra boost?

5psi for under 100nm(on cihans dyno) isnt worth it imo..

oh n found out my fuel leak wasnt a fuel leak. the sensor is playin up..

Detailed my car today, in anticipation of it's shiny new Aero Bars (which are taking WAAAAAY too long to get painted); my son of rajab it's a sexy bitch when it's shiny!:banana:

Dodo juice Lime Prime is very nice to use on black paint.

Reflection? post-61153-0-26778900-1310425114_thumb.jpg Try not to look at the ugly bloke; post-61153-0-56895300-1310425163_thumb.jpg

With painted skirts;post-61153-0-59531300-1310425226_thumb.jpg Without; post-61153-0-55007600-1310425328_thumb.jpg

Now hurry up with my bits!rant.gif

Farrrk I forgot how ugly our cars are without the Aero kit...:yucky:

I know, it looks like the dumb smiling kid at the back of the classroom.

Eating paste...

Hey Dale, who painted the tree mural on your bonnet? Not my choice of artwork but it's very realistic.

rofl.gif

Door molds?

Yeah, I dunno; I think they tie the wheel colour in better now, as there isn't won't be so much grey.

Going to wait and see; can always get them done later, they're easy to match. KH3 is straight black tinter.

Edited by Daleo

Ok, I just had my old boss translate the Nissan user manual regarding oils, he is Japanese. It said the front and rear diff uses 80w-90 and made NO mention of LSD or non LSD. If its a clutch type LSD as some are thinking the 80w-90 will be fine, this is what we used in our 2 way clutch LSD's, so we cant see it being a problem.

got a dyno sheet?? what torque figures you get??

post-37023-0-31134200-1310446822_thumb.jpg

700-750nm's.....from 3,000 to end buddy!...what was yours again......at 16psi???.....and was it a flat torque curve or a little all over the place?

.....I'm not worried....I am sure I'll crack 800-900nm / 300AWKW's on BP98 at 20-21psi........imagine if I ran E85.

P.S. Don't diss our housings mofo......they are a pretty good stock unit imo.....not as good as the GTX.....and if I had of has the time, tools, money and room I might have gone that way!....who is to say which has more lag? and who is to say what the HP difference is when comparing apples with apples!post-37023-0-31134200-1310446822_thumb.jpg

post-37023-0-31134200-1310446822_thumb.jpg

700-750nm's.....from 3,000 to end buddy!...what was yours again......at 16psi???.....and was it a flat torque curve or a little all over the place?

.....I'm not worried....I am sure I'll crack 800-900nm / 300AWKW's on BP98 at 20-21psi........imagine if I ran E85.

P.S. Don't diss our housings mofo......they are a pretty good stock unit imo.....not as good as the GTX.....and if I had of has the time, tools, money and room I might have gone that way!....who is to say which has more lag? and who is to say what the HP difference is when comparing apples with apples!post-37023-0-31134200-1310446822_thumb.jpg

what are you talking about man, i was asking Jethro lol.

who said im dissing our housings?

your on drugs again arent you?

what are you talking about man, i was asking Jethro lol.

who said im dissing our housings?

your on drugs again arent you?

rofl.gifrofl.gifblush.gif

Edited by Jetwreck

yeh yours is OK......but I am producing the same as you at 105km's and more at 180km's!!!! :P

you sure about that bud?

Looks like you have 140 at 105kph... he has 160 at the same speed, yes?

Or am I reading it wrong??

you sure about that bud?

Looks like you have 140 at 105kph... he has 160 at the same speed, yes?

Or am I reading it wrong??

I'm reading it wrong down the bottom!...lol

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...