Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like a bull out of a gate!!!

Nice way to start ....1 day into having the car!!!!

.....I think I lasted 3 day's before I did a full dump back exhaust and another 2 weeks before the wheels....and the list goes on and on and on ect!.....4 years later and 2 things left to do!!!...maybewhistling.gif

I like to think of it as being organised. I ordered the wheels for it the same day I won the car at auction

I even bought the Tananbe sus before I bought the car banana.gif

ZOMG! Trabant wagon!

looks more like Scott's....being white and all!

....has a better looking grill than Aarons too....not that that would be hard!

Edited by Jetwreck

looks more like Scott's....being white and all!

....has a better looking grill than Aarons too....not that that would be hard!

so if its a better looking grill than mine, its definitely better than yours

Well, I decided I would fit the coil overs today. The stock sus was in very good condition but these Tanabe coil overs ride sooooo much nicer. Not hard at all, nearly the same as standard but just ride the bumps a little nicer. It does sit fairly low with the guards sitting level with the tyres. Looks awesome!

Ill try and post a pic over the weekend for those interested.

Well, I decided I would fit the coil overs today. The stock sus was in very good condition but these Tanabe coil overs ride sooooo much nicer. Not hard at all, nearly the same as standard but just ride the bumps a little nicer. It does sit fairly low with the guards sitting level with the tyres. Looks awesome!

Ill try and post a pic over the weekend for those interested.

would want to see pics thumbsup.gif

which tanabe coils do u have? i used to use tanabe NF springs for my civic, they lower the car but only a tad bit stiffer, there was still a bit of bodyroll until i changed to tein flex...

Washed it today.

Yesterday finished my intake, took bottom resonator out of airbox cut hole bigger for 3" piping from bumper grill.

Also brought 2 more Wolf 18x9.5s, but in +15 offset, so now will be running +30 up front and +15 rear

Is the front generally supposed to be higher or lower then the rear?

It's better to have the rear a little higher, otherwise you start to lose caster; which then promotes understeer.

Even with equal front & rear hub to guard measurements; you will still have an amount of rear rake.

It's better to have the rear a little higher, otherwise you start to lose caster; which then promotes understeer.

Even with equal front & rear hub to guard measurements; you will still have an amount of rear rake.

im not saying youre wrong, just having some input to this conversation :)

but shouldnt the rear be a little lower on a car due to the way cars corner?

Is the front generally supposed to be higher or lower then the rear?

Measuring from the sill panel, mine is 30-35mm higher at the rear than the front. Its hard to tell by eye that it has 30-35mm of rake now. IMO it sits nicely. I might adjust it slightly when the new wheels arrive, this will depend on what tyre sizes I end up using.

When I was younger and into Valiants we would run the rear lower than the front and it understeers badly.

And out of interest, how many of you guys loosen all of your suspension arms and preload the hub and then tighten it all back up when lowering a car? I always do this as it takes the twist out of bushes. If you don't do this it twist the bushes quite a lot. A lot of people don't do this and then wonder why the bushes wear out quickly.

Edited by slippylotion

(1)Measuring from the sill panel, mine is 30-35mm higher at the rear than the front. Its hard to tell by eye that it has 30-35mm of rake now. IMO it sits nicely. I might adjust it slightly when the new wheels arrive, this will depend on what tyre sizes I end up using.

When I was younger and into Valiants we would run the rear lower than the front and it understeers badly.

(2) And out of interest, how many of you guys loosen all of your suspension arms and preload the hub and then tighten it all back up when lowering a car? I always do this as it takes the twist out of bushes. If you don't do this it twist the bushes quite a lot. A lot of people don't do this and then wonder why the bushes wear out quickly.

(1) IMO i wouldnt have the rear lower than the front - considering its 4WD and the body under power is always going to be lower at the rear under these conditions.......... also less understeer!!!

its not like we need to have more weight over the rears for traction anyways

(2) yep.... otherwise u could also find your rear springs move round each time u jack the car up!!!

(1) IMO i wouldnt have the rear lower than the front - considering its 4WD and the body under power is always going to be lower at the rear under these conditions.......... also less understeer!!!

its not like we need to have more weight over the rears for traction anyways

(2) yep.... otherwise u could also find your rear springs move round each time u jack the car up!!!

Not sure what you mean here. My rear is higher than the front. Don't look at wheel arch measurements, look at the sill panel, this is the level line of the car. Wheel arches front to back are often not the same height.

How will the spring move around when they are captured?

Yep, always crack & loosen arms to settle bushes. Usually just run the car up on some ramps once I'm done; easier than preloading arms.

I think the rake on mine is only 10mm front to rear (rear higher).

Iain, I stand by my "Loss of rake equals increased understeer" theory, but it must be in relation to original heights; not just a blanket "Rear high equals awesome handling", probably should have clarified.

They poke out a bit, but nothing too crazy, just gotta roll the lips on the rear and you are sweet. just stretch some 245 tyres

Apologies for harping on about wheels so much - reckon a 19x9.5+15 would fit? It looks as though 19x9.5+22 is wide without being ridiculous, the 7mm should be pretty safe, yeah?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...