Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they regesigned a few parts mid-way through the run it looks like

when stripping stephens wreck, he had some small bits that were better i guess. so they are now located on my car :)

maybe it fell off. more than likely did.

OR its a different design as mine is a 2001 model. stephens 2002 had a different undertray with metal supports in it.

Yeah, IIRC he bought a new "rear" undertray from Hornsby Nissan which had more metal on it.... or something

Mine doesn't look too good, only 4 bolt holes work now. Send the cad down and I will try it out on mine Craig. If it works I can sell one to Aaron for shitloads. hahahah.

I took on a little project with the Stagea.

For those who like the idea of fitting GTR sway bars to their C34 but can't be arsed forcing the rear bar to fit, check out this thread below:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/375348-upgrading-sway-bars-to-stagea/

I fabricated up some mounts so the rear GTR sway bar is a comfortable fit.

:thumbsup:

Put R32 GTR Sumitomo brakes on tonight. PMu pads.

Two issues - one, didn't cut/bend enough of the LHS stone guard out of the way - so it scrapes on left hand turns - easy fix.

two, I seem to be getting a small leak from the banjo in the back of the calliper. When I pulled up after bedding them in, there were patches of BF around the wheels, both sides. Not good. Braking performance was good, so not a massive leak. I think the OEM's are slightly different in operation. They have a little seat where the copper washer sits into the calliper. The R32's dont have this. So what I think I have to do is smooth off the surface where the banjo goes in to make it sit flush and seal nicely.

Either that, or shorten the part that goes into the calliper- thats been mentioned by other people. I thought I wouldn't have to do that because I removed the original restrictor out of the sumitomo callipers.

Anyone else have similar experiences?

Put R32 GTR Sumitomo brakes on tonight. PMu pads.

Two issues - one, didn't cut/bend enough of the LHS stone guard out of the way - so it scrapes on left hand turns - easy fix.

two, I seem to be getting a small leak from the banjo in the back of the calliper. When I pulled up after bedding them in, there were patches of BF around the wheels, both sides. Not good. Braking performance was good, so not a massive leak. I think the OEM's are slightly different in operation. They have a little seat where the copper washer sits into the calliper. The R32's dont have this. So what I think I have to do is smooth off the surface where the banjo goes in to make it sit flush and seal nicely.

Either that, or shorten the part that goes into the calliper- thats been mentioned by other people. I thought I wouldn't have to do that because I removed the original restrictor out of the sumitomo callipers.

Anyone else have similar experiences?

Alex, did you use new copper washers on the banjos? I've fitted several sets of Sumitomos using banjos, rather than flares (as per std) no leaks, no issues. With the taper seat gone; the banjo shouldn't bottom out. Wash the residual fluid off with some soapy water and see if it reappears.

i wouldn't smooth the surface at all

it will be nice and flat at the moment but as soon as you hit it with a file or something its going to become uneven

i'd leave it to a last resort if you can

Yep, it should be fine with some new copper washers. If not, the area will need to be spotfaced to give a nice flat mounting surface.

Edited by Daleo

Fixed it.

Could not find copper washers, only seemed to sell them in imperial not M10! Nissan parts wasn't open sundays. I removed the lip off the old washers, and gave the bolt a bit of a grind down, sanded the surface smooth as, whacked it back together and fixed.

Pipster- my callipers had some kind of finish on them , a little rough in the alloy. Bit of sanding gave a good finish.

Craig came round, fixed my grinding problem... was that little bit of alloy that I should have got rid of in the first place, but it only fouled on one side, and only when turning!

So brakes are on and working a treat, so much better and heaps more confidence in them than the OEMs.

Craig also broke out the magic tool, and we lowered the back of the car - by popular request! Photos later, when I can be f'd.

So all in all, a very productive weekend - thanks again to Craig for helping me out. What a champ.worship.gif

Fixed it.

Could not find copper washers, only seemed to sell them in imperial not M10! Nissan parts wasn't open sundays. I removed the lip off the old washers, and gave the bolt a bit of a grind down, sanded the surface smooth as, whacked it back together and fixed.

Pipster- my callipers had some kind of finish on them , a little rough in the alloy. Bit of sanding gave a good finish.

Craig came round, fixed my grinding problem... was that little bit of alloy that I should have got rid of in the first place, but it only fouled on one side, and only when turning!

So brakes are on and working a treat, so much better and heaps more confidence in them than the OEMs.

Craig also broke out the magic tool, and we lowered the back of the car - by popular request! Photos later, when I can be f'd.

So all in all, a very productive weekend - thanks again to Craig for helping me out. What a champ.worship.gif

Not a problem with the help....I've run out of things to do on my car and yours is the closest to me! :P

On other news I got my head pretty much around your HKS Kit....hopefully I will get a good nights sleep tonight now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...