Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With the 7psi actuator its hard to run any more than that, even with a controller. You may get 20psi midrange but it will always drop to around 15 by redline without increasing the spring tension on the wastegate.

The exhaust manifold pressure literally blows the wastegate puck open on boost bypassing the turbo hence welding a stiff spring to the actuator to hold it better.

All the stock turbo failures I have seen have been due to oil starvation/heat on the rear bearing as Dale mentioned.

Lol Scotty, I should have referenced you in there mate; it's been your hard work and development that has brought this information to light.

I fitted the dump by itself on a factory exhaust and I'm convinced it makes the turbos life easier.

Speaking of which, Slippy and I were both talking about running a dump on the standard exhaust.

Are there power gains to be seen from running an aftermarket dump on the factory exhaust? Would it be more hassle than it's worth running a custom system from the turbo back to the factory "sports" muffler? I know that the factory exhaust weighs a ton so I figure it's worthwhile getting rid of, but I quite like the fact that I can press a button and my exhaust goes quiet, but if it's going to significantly impact the gains it's just a waste of money trying to keep it..

Speaking of which, Slippy and I were both talking about running a dump on the standard exhaust.

Are there power gains to be seen from running an aftermarket dump on the factory exhaust? Would it be more hassle than it's worth running a custom system from the turbo back to the factory "sports" muffler? I know that the factory exhaust weighs a ton so I figure it's worthwhile getting rid of, but I quite like the fact that I can press a button and my exhaust goes quiet, but if it's going to significantly impact the gains it's just a waste of money trying to keep it..

Yes,, 100% worth the effort.

Standard dump has a cat in it. Which then connects to a mid pipe... with a cat in it... and the massive box of baffles.

If you really want to keep the Nismo rear I'd do dump and mid pipe. But you should see a huge gain just doing dump and midpipe.

Andrew at AM Performance designed his exhaust so that it matches up to the factory mounting locations, so you can buy a dump and midpipe and it should be easy to connect to the Nismo muffler. Or just get him to do it, either way.

Standard dump has a cat in it. Which then connects to a mid pipe... with a cat in it... and the massive box of baffles.

If you really want to keep the Nismo rear I'd do dump and mid pipe. But you should see a huge gain just doing dump and midpipe.

Andrew at AM Performance designed his exhaust so that it matches up to the factory mounting locations, so you can buy a dump and midpipe and it should be easy to connect to the Nismo muffler. Or just get him to do it, either way.

This sounds good.

So would the midpipe replace the baffles? I want to get rid of that. Do you know if his system has a cat too? Think it would be a lot louder replacing the standard dump (cat), midpipe (cat) and box of baffles with just a cat?

This sounds good.

So would the midpipe replace the baffles? I want to get rid of that. Do you know if his system has a cat too? Think it would be a lot louder replacing the standard dump (cat), midpipe (cat) and box of baffles with just a cat?

If you want it quiet, get a Blitz NUR cat-back and then get whomever to make up a dump and frontpipe/cat to bolt up to the Blitz.

Stock is 82dB

Blitz is 82dB (but 80mm and straight through design. Cheap too)

Everything else is 86db+

If you want it quiet, get a Blitz NUR cat-back and then get whomever to make up a dump and frontpipe/cat to bolt up to the Blitz.

Stock is 82dB

Blitz is 82dB (but 80mm and straight through design. Cheap too)

Everything else is 86db+

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

Thats what I like about the switch as well

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

I would be interested in your current system if you upgrade.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

I got mine thru Jesse a while back & it cost ~$950. People have reported them for as low as $799 from Just Jap (plus freight?), depending on exchange rates & how many they bring in at a time.

Point to note, exhausts get louder over time as the sound deadening settles down. I'm very pleased I didn't go with a louder one as mine is now probably at the level that most guys would say is what they like, but if it keeps getting louder so help me..... lol.

Also, the tip is a bit on the big side for a 'mature' bloke like me.

Another late one trying to resolve the timing/electrical issue.

I'll attack this again tomorrow night....thanks iain for your help.

Edited by Jetwreck

no worries craig, see you there again tonight!

when we were bleeding the attesa system last night, craig put his foot on the brake and one of my braided brake lines split and pissed out brake fluid.

LUCKILY the old set were still next door. threw them on and im able to drive

just be aware M35 drivers, dont get the cheaper braided brake lines from IM. just get nismo or have a set made up by maltech. actually wasnt someone organising that?? im pretty sure i gave a set to someone to have that done

Front trim off and ECU out, to take down to SAS to see if they can chip it for tuning the Turbo Kit! banana.gif

Fingers Crossed!

Can you ask them for Craig and my ECU back that we gave them 18 months ago to see if they can tune our cars. :(

no worries craig, see you there again tonight!

when we were bleeding the attesa system last night, craig put his foot on the brake and one of my braided brake lines split and pissed out brake fluid.

LUCKILY the old set were still next door. threw them on and im able to drive

just be aware M35 drivers, dont get the cheaper braided brake lines from IM. just get nismo or have a set made up by maltech. actually wasnt someone organising that?? im pretty sure i gave a set to someone to have that done

Faaark!blink.gif You surely dodged a bullet there Iain; could've been a disaster.

Specialised Brake & Clutch in Penrith made me a set of Goodridge ADR legal lines for my last car; they were around $80-$90 each. All pressure tested to ensure things like that don't happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...