Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my AFM die on me. Boosting up a hill the power just cut out completely, it would barely idle and wouldnt rev. Fortunately i managed to limp the car home by disconnecting the AFM.

Fearing an expensive replacement was on the cards i soaked the AFM with some contact cleaner, let it sit over night and then tired it out in the morning. Amazingly the engine started up great, idled perfect and drove fantastic. In fact its driving better then ever, i went on a 100km drive this arvo with a whole bunch of blasts of the throttle. Fuel consumption is better and revving feels a lot smoother.

I'd recommend giving your AFM a clean even if its functioning well. Next weekend i'll try cleaning the wife's V35 AFM which is working fine to see if it shows an improvement

wow, thats a great result! i tried cleaning mine also when one died. good to know that is worth trying

you should probably perform an ECU reset after the clean.

Awesome.......I wouldn't bother with a second hand rocker as mostly likely would have/will warp.....I am getting a few quotes on rockers covers now..... but this is money I would rather be spending on suspension or exhaust or on my race car......

Will report back with quotes

You only need the passenger side rocker too I assume, as that is the one that always seems to leak. Funny enough it seems to be the one that fails on VQ35's also, so not just turbo heat related. Post up the prices if you can...

I just organised some carpet mats to be custom made, 4 floor mats, hump with velcro and cargo floor mat. Good pricing on them too. I got them to supply some bitumen sandwiched flock sound deadening to be glued underneath the rear luggage mat, to try and get rid of the exhaust drone, and also they will cut out for the luggage hooks in the floor so they can be removed and bolted back in, hopefully holding the mat in place nicely.

They also supplied me with the bitumen/aluminium sheets to stick to the body under the plastic trays. Should make it almost silent in the back apparently.

I might ask them for a group buy price if anyone is interested in fitted mats...

You only need the passenger side rocker too I assume, as that is the one that always seems to leak. Funny enough it seems to be the one that fails on VQ35's also, so not just turbo heat related. Post up the prices if you can...

Should have prices this arvo, will advise. Yeah drivers side is fine.

I just organised some carpet mats to be custom made, 4 floor mats, hump with velcro and cargo floor mat. Good pricing on them too. I got them to supply some bitumen sandwiched flock sound deadening to be glued underneath the rear luggage mat, to try and get rid of the exhaust drone, and also they will cut out for the luggage hooks in the floor so they can be removed and bolted back in, hopefully holding the mat in place nicely.

They also supplied me with the bitumen/aluminium sheets to stick to the body under the plastic trays. Should make it almost silent in the back apparently.

I might ask them for a group buy price if anyone is interested in fitted mats...

Keen to hear a price on the cargo area mat Scotty!

I just organised some carpet mats to be custom made, 4 floor mats, hump with velcro and cargo floor mat. Good pricing on them too. I got them to supply some bitumen sandwiched flock sound deadening to be glued underneath the rear luggage mat, to try and get rid of the exhaust drone, and also they will cut out for the luggage hooks in the floor so they can be removed and bolted back in, hopefully holding the mat in place nicely.

They also supplied me with the bitumen/aluminium sheets to stick to the body under the plastic trays. Should make it almost silent in the back apparently.

I might ask them for a group buy price if anyone is interested in fitted mats...

yep i;m in :cheers:

Ok, I will get some pics of mine when done and ask them for pricing. There are many carpet types and options they can do for us, including stitching a patch with embroidered Stagea logo, but I was happy with plain grey.

Are they similar to the factory option ones in the way they go around the seats? Also will they have a hole to stop the drivers matt from moving?

Yep, they were originally copied off some imported mats I think but they now curve around all the floor bulges and the drivers one has the hole for the clip.

The rear cargo didn't go up the back of the seat as they couldn't work out how to hold it there. I didn't want the metal clamps I have seen on the JDM mats so I left mine as only the floor.

Edit: I did tell them they could drape it over the top and have the headrest bars go through it, they could possibly do that if you wanted but I would have to go and get my car remeasured for you.

You only need the passenger side rocker too I assume, as that is the one that always seems to leak. Funny enough it seems to be the one that fails on VQ35's also, so not just turbo heat related. Post up the prices if you can...

$391.97 for a passenger side rocker cover ex-japan :wacko:

$391.97 for a passenger side rocker cover ex-japan :wacko:

Lol, yeah, that's not affordable. I haven't gone inside, but would taking the covers off, and getting some round seals cut and using a little sealant to bung it all back together?

Is that an option from people that have seen it?

Just bought a complete V35 coupe exhaust from headers to tips for the mid pipe. Had to buy the whole lot as he wouldn't separate but only cost $100. From fist look the V35 pipe is about 3mm smaller in diameter from my measurements, will confirm tomorrow. Also keen to see if the much smaller muffler will improve power/torque at all.

Yep, they were originally copied off some imported mats I think but they now curve around all the floor bulges and the drivers one has the hole for the clip.

The rear cargo didn't go up the back of the seat as they couldn't work out how to hold it there. I didn't want the metal clamps I have seen on the JDM mats so I left mine as only the floor.

Edit: I did tell them they could drape it over the top and have the headrest bars go through it, they could possibly do that if you wanted but I would have to go and get my car remeasured for you.

I'd prob just go with the floor matts, if I was to put anything in the boot it would be rubber so the dog can go in no worries :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...