Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my RS4s ECU decided to die on me the other day >_< mech said all the outputs are fried!!...

ended up finding a solution with a Series 2 Auto ECU he had laying around...

and now my car actually feels like its running better and smoother.. and no longer so rich... (it was running very rich lately)

trying to source another manual ECU at present via JDM..

is there any potential issues with running the auto ECU in my manual ?? Mech was very unsure if there would be ramifications.... :unsure:

If I can't find a reasonably priced manual ECU.. might just have to get myself a Vipec after I get my clutch done... *sigh* that time of the year I guess..

(thanks for the info Cam / Scotty)

yeah according to Mech the wiring was 'spaghetti'.. not sure what had been done previously in there, but its been sorted out apparently.... got a pretty hefty labour bill at the end of it though...

(and an empty tank for some reason :/ .. will have to question that one.. was 40km on the o.d.o since filling up)

and a $300 deposit on the auto ECU, (hence trying to find a manual one cheaper for the moment, then give it back)

Edited by atomaly

Tomas there is no problem or difference for running the auto ECU in manual. The auto has an additional function to cut timing when the gearbox says there is a shift taking place - but since there is no gearbox to send the signal that will never happen.

I ran an auto ECU in my manual for about 18 months until other mods meant I needed to go aftermarket.

Also, auto ecus will be everywhere....but manuals will be much rarer just like the donor cars

Tomas there is no problem or difference for running the auto ECU in manual. The auto has an additional function to cut timing when the gearbox says there is a shift taking place - but since there is no gearbox to send the signal that will never happen.

I ran an auto ECU in my manual for about 18 months until other mods meant I needed to go aftermarket.

Also, auto ecus will be everywhere....but manuals will be much rarer just like the donor cars

oh that's a relief :) .. I didn't modify my ECU, but then, I wouldn't know what's inside it.. I might go grab it now and open it up.. ... ok looks pretty stock.. no mods!

might just pick up a second hand auto ecu cheap, and give the other one back (as there is some issue with it which is why its his test one)!!

anyone got a spare S2 Auto ECU they'd like to part with ????? :D

I don't, but you should see them come up time to time, for about 1/10th what your tuner charged you. Make sure the part numbers match, there were smoe pinout/wiring differences in some of the models.

I don't, but you should see them come up time to time, for about 1/10th what your tuner charged you. Make sure the part numbers match, there were smoe pinout/wiring differences in some of the models.

part number for mine is 23710 0V801 JECS TM

not sure what the Auto ECU number should be? does anyone have a list of which ones are compatible?

or at least how to tell which one is series 2.... did a quick search and can't seem to find much info.. (even looked through the stagea parts list thread)

Edited by atomaly

part number for mine is 23710 0V801 JECS TM

not sure what the Auto ECU number should be? does anyone have a list of which ones are compatible?

or at least how to tell which one is series 2.... did a quick search and can't seem to find much info.. (even looked through the stagea parts list thread)

There are three different S1 ecus and thus three different looms. Earliest and most common is the OV300 followed by the OV301 and then the OV310

Series one are Hitachi Series 2 are Jecs. Some S2 ecus are OV810 and OV811

Grab this one really fast if its still available - fully tunable - worthwhile even on a stock motor!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407534-nistune-s2-rs4-neo/

I like what you're doin' there Leon.

Also, clear tube is for catch can?

Thanks Cam.

Yes, catch can under airbox. I just replaced the abomination of multi sized tubes that was my last effort. The clear will be decidedly brown in a few months, lol.

Thanks Cam.

Yes, catch can under airbox. I just replaced the abomination of multi sized tubes that was my last effort. The clear will be decidedly brown in a few months, lol.

Doesn't the clear tube to the catch can suck itself closed under idle vacuum? It gets pretty soft once the hose heats up

Doesn't the clear tube to the catch can suck itself closed under idle vacuum? It gets pretty soft once the hose heats up

Not in this case because it isn't routed back to the plenum. After the catch can it goes into the intake before the turbo. At idle it is subject to atmospheric pressure only.

Just fitted Dale's Piano Brace. Awesome stuff.

Now just have to finish installing the wideband so I can put the dash back together.

I can't believe how long the 'piano' reference has hung around, lol.

Leon, do you have the PCV valve catch canned on the other rocker cover (assuming VQ25dets have the same PCV set up as VQ35des)?

Thats the one that would suck closed. I went and bought some heavy oil resistant pipe from pirtek for it. The one you have catch canned, and correctly I might add, required both vacuum and pressure. So it has to be able to suck in and blow out. I believe that the PCV is more important to catch can than the other side, because it has move vacuum drawing oily gas out and into the plenum. Thats how I thought it would work best anyway.

Leon, do you have the PCV valve catch canned on the other rocker cover (assuming VQ25dets have the same PCV set up as VQ35des)?

Thats the one that would suck closed. I went and bought some heavy oil resistant pipe from pirtek for it. The one you have catch canned, and correctly I might add, required both vacuum and pressure. So it has to be able to suck in and blow out. I believe that the PCV is more important to catch can than the other side, because it has move vacuum drawing oily gas out and into the plenum. Thats how I thought it would work best anyway.

yeah, that's the one I have the catch can hooked up to - between the PCV & the plenum chamber just above the centre inlet runners

at idle it was sucking the hose closed so i ended up using some 3/8" brake booster hose which has enough reinforcement in it to stay open under vacuum

Leon, do you have the PCV valve catch canned on the other rocker cover (assuming VQ25dets have the same PCV set up as VQ35des)?

Thats the one that would suck closed. I went and bought some heavy oil resistant pipe from pirtek for it. The one you have catch canned, and correctly I might add, required both vacuum and pressure. So it has to be able to suck in and blow out. I believe that the PCV is more important to catch can than the other side, because it has move vacuum drawing oily gas out and into the plenum. Thats how I thought it would work best anyway.

Yes & no. It is there but not hooked up. Everytime I connected the hose my old turbo would smoke because the seals were shot. It must have been adding pressure to the system. Maybe my PCV valve is stuffed, although it seemed to be doing it's job when I removed it to check. I have literally only just got my new turbo in (& now not leaking :) ) so I can connect the catch can again & see what happens. Hopefully my PCV doesn't allow boost into the engine & the pressure blows out something important...

Alex, I know you stuffed your can with steel wool. The theory is to filter the oil out of the air better, right? How long did it take to poke it in thru the drain hole?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...