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I have a few but none fit down (or up) there properly. I can do it in a minute or two now with my cut down 22mm open end spanner though.

I fitted Whiteline diff bushes in my car today, quite cheap to buy too. It made one hell of a difference too, all the axle tramp is gone and it chirps nicely between gears again, it really tightened the whole back end. My original rear diff bush was totally flogged and was leaking oil.

well on the bright side it will be a good test of banjo sizing.

symptom 1 of too much oil to the turbo will be burning oil at full boost (grey/white smoke)

symptom 2 of too much oil to the turbo is the turbo seal blowing.

If neither of those happen, it's not too large :)

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The stock Garrett core will have a restrictor built in so it shouldn't pose too much risk, that said the VQ runs stupidly high oil pressure, I have seen 10 bar on my gauge which I think is it's limit...

The stock Garrett core will have a restrictor built in so it shouldn't pose too much risk, that said the VQ runs stupidly high oil pressure, I have seen 10 bar on my gauge which I think is it's limit...

I wonder if that had something to do with my issue? Stao told me to drill mine to 4mm.

I wonder if that had something to do with my issue? Stao told me to drill mine to 4mm.

That seems very large. I did mine with 3mm (think that is what is was, was more like find drill bit to drill after 10 hours under the car changing turbo).

I agree with scott, 2.5mm max.

That seems very large. I did mine with 3mm (think that is what is was, was more like find drill bit to drill after 10 hours under the car changing turbo).

I agree with scott, 2.5mm max.

John from Precision recommended I drill mine to 4mm; so I did. No issues with mine.

Oh joy. Replaced another AFM.

FML.

I popped my new genuine Nissan one after about a month; failed just as the car started.

I bought a WRX one the 2nd time. It seems to be going fine.

It fits about 4 billion different models, so at least they're easy to get.

I popped my new genuine Nissan one after about a month; failed just as the car started.

I bought a WRX one the 2nd time. It seems to be going fine.

It fits about 4 billion different models, so at least they're easy to get.

What number are you on now? I think I've killed 3 now.

Did you buy new last time, should be under warranty surely.

This is the 2nd one thats died in 4 months.

Got a 2nd hand one last time from a wreckers which they gave me 3 months warranty on - failed after 4 months to the day. lol

Today Craig and I, well lets be honest mostly just Craig fitted the plenum spacer, scotty's coolant mod, transgo shift kit and finally got around to doing the fun switch mod.

Improvements?

Shifting is definitely faster and I actually think smoother. I havent driven it alot yet but we stalled it up and even with the fun switch off the boost is coming on much stronger. Will see how it goes after I drive it a bit. Still have a random stalling issue but hopefully will get that sorted soon. The car is getting there :)

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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